Although I am Indian by heritage, it was not until I accompanied my mother to India in the early 1990s for my older sister’s wedding trousseau that I really fell in love with India’s craftsmanship and artistry.
I was lucky to open Tabla in 1999 when the Pashmina craze was taking the world by storm. India was so fascinating then, as it continues to be now. There was no fashion week In India for my first year of Tabla and no more than one or two international fashion magazines. I leapt in for inspiration and that was India for me – the land of creativity. I would hop on a plane to all the cities rich in tapestry and craft, and blissfully travel as the young do without abandon in search of designers and product to fill up my store.
I continue to explore India – it’s a playground of inspiration for my brand and me and we have only just touched the surface of what this beautiful rich and magical county has to offer. The world today is inundated with mass production carrying the label of luxury. There is much forgotten in the world today of the old fashioned techniques, colour dyeing, thread work and tradition that needs to be explored and rightly reclaim its position as true luxury.
Lucknow
From the day I first laid eyes on Chikan embroidery I was hooked and it is still one of my favorite crafts of India, originated in Lucknow. I am obsessed with the traditional white-on-white work but also love playing with the colour and variations of this beautiful embroidery technique. I have sat with the very talented Karigars (artisans) as they perfect this craft.
Rajasthan
I would spend the most magical weekends in Jaipur and Jodhpur, where I would lose myself in the stunning Bandani and Leheriya hand-dyed fabrics. Here, I was also mesmerised by the Kundan enamel jewellery of the Mughal period. The images of ladies sitting on the back of scooters in the most vibrant bright-coloured saris, looking stunning and carefree, will always remain one of my strongest inspirations. It is their way of life to dress in these bright peacock colours – truly stunning.
Delhi
I will always hold a special place for Delhi, as it is where I started my love affair with pashminas, which were, and continue to be a Tabla staple. The weavers of Kashmir would work very closely with me to create luxurious stoles in my Tabla Delhi atelier. I continue to get excited to explore interesting weaves and embroideries and to experiment with new ways to develop the Pashmina. I have always loved Zardozi work, which is used in many of my collections. Zardozi derived from the Persian words Zar (gold) and Dozi (sewing), and is a form of elaborate metal embroidery which pinnacled in the Mughal period of the 17th Century.
Mumbai
I am obsessed. If I could live anywhere besides Hong Kong, I think Mumbai would have my heart. I love the energy, the food, the people, Bollywood – basically you need to drag me out of Mumbai! I stay in the old wing of the Taj hotel and sip tea by the pool in the mornings. Dreaming up Tabla designs in this bustling city is invigorating and refreshing. I source a great deal of fabric and trimmings from Mumbai but if I’m very honest I just go there for fun, as it’s magical.
Kutch
On my last trip to India, in January, I met a lovely woman who works closely with female artisans in rural parts of Kutch, Gujarat, to revive its age-old crafting traditions. Together we planned a trip in early April for which I would accompany her to see firsthand the creation of Kutch embroideries, which have a tribal feel and incorporate mirror work. Both these embroideries are new to me and I’m excited to give them a Tabla twist!
Editor
Tania Mohan
