This Lunar New Year, we revisit classic auspicious dishes that have been elevated with an innovative, molecular twist. We explore dishes from Lee Lo Mei, Atum Restaurant and Cobo House, where chefs deconstruct traditional Chinese New Year fare, expertly imbuing each dish with their own creative flair.
Lee Lo Mei
With a tongue-in-cheek name that plays on popular Cantonese profanity, LEE Lo Mei is a quaint eatery that reimagines traditional Hong Kong favourites with thoughtful, contemporary updates. The restaurant’s “Ginger Bomb” is a playful spin on tang yuan (湯圓), a beloved Chinese New Year dessert that is enjoyed by many, year-round. The original dish contains smooth and chewy mochi dumplings often filled with black sesame or peanut paste, and served in a bowl of syrupy soup flavoured with rock sugar and ginger. “This dish actually reminds me of time spent with family. Both my father and I love this dish so my mother makes it for us every year from scratch on the eve of the lunar new year”, says Chef Max Lee of LEE Lo Mei. Max’s creative take on the traditional dish involves a molecular preparation, “spherification”, which shapes the ginger soup into a sphere, thinly held together by agar agar, a vegetable-based “gelatin”, with a mini glutinous rice ball inside. This auspicious dish perfectly encapsulates the restaurant’s refreshing take on dishes through merging innovative techniques with nostalgic flavour.
COBO HOUSE
COBO HOUSE reopened at K11 MUSEA last year with a unique “unspoken menu” theme. Entitled The Knife & Spoon, the unorthodox concept sees an ever-changing menu, replaced every six weeks with a new “Chapter” that focuses on one or a few key, quality, ingredients. Ray Choi and Devon Hou jointly helm the kitchen, and are no stranger to culinary excellence and ingenuity having previously worked at Robuchon, Amber, and Arbor. Chapter 3 of the unspoken menu, “Beneath the Earth”, is focused on rooted ingredients, and for this Chinese New Year dish Chef Ray Choi and Devon Hou have created their own version of turnip cake (蘿蔔糕). In aligning with the COBO HOUSE mentality of bringing new and inventive dishes to the table, the two chefs have created a deconstructed 3-way turnip cake, with molecular elements to modernise this dish in 2021. Turnip is presented deconstructed, in a molecular ravioli form, and finally in liquid (puree) form. For one of the three components, turnip is shredded and baked with sweet potato powder then steamed to resemble the soft texture of turnip cake. Chinese sausage (臘腸) is then fried and crushed into a crumb-like texture and mixed with shiitake powder, while the addition of dried shrimp foam rounds out the dish with a burst of umami flavour.
ATUM Restaurant
ATUM Restaurant is centred on the importance of breaking something down in order to recreate it with a fresh new lens. This Chinese New Year, Chef Bong Kwok was inspired by Prosperity Toss (撈起), Poon Choi (盆菜) and Colourful Fish Salad (七彩魚生沙律) where elements of each were combined to create Kumquat Lobster Prosperity Toss (金桔龍蝦撈起), a bright and festive dish brimming with auspicious blessings. As Poon Choi symbolises abundant clothing, food and good luck, it is particularly relevant for the Lunar New Year celebrations. The traditional Cantonese dish has been eaten in Hong Kong for over 700 years, and typically comprises turnip, taro, lotus root, pigskin, fish maw, chicken, duck and abalone in a wooden bowl, with the most prized and valuable items placed at the top for all to see. Prosperity Toss is a Chinese New Year ritual taking place on the seventh day of the first lunar month, where family members mix together a vibrant salad, It is a more ceremonial dish. In modernizing the dish, Chef Kwok dehydrates and fries the pork skin for added textural play, while the addition of Spanish red shrimp sashimi, slow-cooked abalone and lobster represent adequate food and clothing. A kumquat gel sauce adds a slightly acidic zing and playfulness without distracting from the freshness of the original ingredients. Finally, the local edible flowers are added for a final festive touch.
Photography by Samantha Sin with styling by Ella Wong
Editor
Carina FischerCredit
Lead image: Photography by Samantha Sin with styling by Ella Wong