RŌNIN
RŌNIN is an intimate, izakaya-style bar that highlights the city’s freshest seafood alongside an extensive Japanese whisky lineup. The nondescript entrance gives way to cosy bar-style seating, where guests can peruse the one-page menu that has been conveniently separated into three categories of dishes: raw, smaller and bigger. One of the first dishes to grace the original menu was the flower crab with uni, mitsuba and sudachi, the inspiration of which Chef Matt Abergel credits to their neighbouring restaurant, The Chairman. The dish features de-shelled crab meat presented inside a shell and served with uni, “I wanted a cold preparation, where we did all the work of taking the meat out of the shells (inspired by my partner Lindsay Jang’s reluctance to eat crab out of sheer laziness), and paired the crab meat with an equally and subtly sweet delicacy, uni.” The flower crab is now one of RŌNIN’s most recognisable dishes, and remains, to this day, one of the only dishes that was never removed from the original menu.
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon epitomises opulence. With its signature sleek red and black décor, the three-michelin starred establishment offers an innovative take on French classics with thoughtful dishes that have been meticulously presented. Case in point: Le Caviar Imperial. Caviar was one of Joël Robuchon’s signature ingredients – in fact, the renowned chef created this dish at some point in the ’80s, and, spare a few minor updates, the dish has remained on the menu ever since. A perfect circle of marinated snow crab meat rests within a bed of lobster jelly, and is topped with a disc of osetra caviar and surrounded by dots of cauliflower cream. Executive Chef Adriano Cattaneo comments on the expertise required to create the dish, “It is really hard to prepare this dish, it requires a lot of concentration and attention to details, but it is so incredible when you know how to make it”. The umami of the lobster jelly perfectly complements the delicate potency of the caviar, while the lightness of the creamed cauliflower melds the ingredients together while softening the dish’s flavour profile. A truly exquisite dish, Robuchon has created a feast for both the eyes and the palate.
Shop 401, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central; robuchon.hk
VEA
VEA stands for Vicky Et Antonio (French for Vicky and Antonio), the restaurant name paying homage to Executive Chef Vicky Cheng and award-winning mixologist Antonio Lai. VEA merges the intricate techniques required in French fine dining with the potent spices and flavours of Chinese cuisine, in a warm and inviting atmosphere: an impressive counter and open kitchen space allow guests to watch Chef Vicky and his team in action, while a thoughtful and deliberate cocktail pairing is also offered, constructed by Antonio. The creativity of Chef Vicky is seemingly endless: the 6 or 8-course tasting menu sees one dish rotated out of the menu every two weeks, bringing unique flavour combinations for refined fusion cuisine that delights without coming across as sloppy or kitschy. One of the first courses on the esteemed tasting menu is abalone with hand pulled noodles and Kristal caviar, “The result is a rich velvety combination of smooth abalone, creamy chewy noodles, plump pearls of complex Kristal caviar, all cut with a sauce made from the natural juice of abalone and vinegar”
30/F, 198 Wellington St, Central; vea.hk
Photography by Samantha Sin with styling by Ella Wong
Editor
Carina FischerCredit
Lead image: Photography by Samantha Sin with styling by Ella Wong