面對日漸枯燥乏味的時尚世界，各大品牌為了迎合新世代時裝迷既貪新又念舊的矛盾心理，紛紛復刻舊設計，或是從封塵的檔案室找尋可有的素材成為創作靈感，當中不乏成功例子，甚至打造出銷售不俗的 it bags。Nicolas Ghesquière 彷彿早就深明這個道理，但是他更加藝高膽大，直接將百年行李箱轉化成輕便攜帶的小手袋，作為他2014年入主品牌的第一個手袋款式 Petite Malle（Malle 為 travel trunk 的法文）絕非不是「搬字過紙」的所謂向品牌 DNA 致敬，實際展現創新思維，這一點，是設計師考慮市場和創意之間作出平衡的最好例子。

Petite Malle 不是品牌中歷史悠久的手袋款式，畢竟推出至今只有七年時間，但靈感則是源自法國銀行家兼慈善家 Albert Kahn 在1929年特別訂制的專屬行李箱，顯得意義非凡。Albert Kahn 對旅行和攝影充滿熱情，當年因一趟日本出差，隨即展開超過20年、遊歷50多國家的攝影旅程；即使在經濟大蕭條破產之前，他仍然雇用超過十位攝影師一起在世界各地攝下具有歷史和藝術價值的照片，後世的人稱這些珍藏為「地球檔案」。這個使用黑色鐵皮鑲邊的紅色帆布箱，來自品牌首款平頂旅行箱的雛形，擁有箱型結構、Tumbler 鎖扣、皮革包角等標誌性元素；最初目的是運送攝影器材與底片，箱邊可以繫上粗繩以便當地土著搬運，甚至專屬簽名的白色「XXX」符號，這大概是史上最早的個性化訂製服務了。

1929年特別訂制的專屬行李箱
2021年秋冬系列
1929年特別訂制的專屬行李箱
2021年秋冬系列
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Nicolas Ghesquière 在前東家 Balenciaga 已經有製造 it bags 的掘金能力，Petite Malle 自然也在他計算之中的熱賣，打後每一季都有它的蹤影。2014年的初代版本與 Albert Kahn 行李箱的用色與設計完全一致，只是配有可拆卸和可調節式的皮革肩帶，尺寸迷你得多，以及象徵三隻自由翺翔的海鷗「XXX」符號更為立體而已。除此之外，品牌打正旗號宣傳Petite Malle的工藝技術，不只採用最初的Épi皮革，還號稱有100多道製箱工序，無論內裏採用菱格交叉的線條，手袋上每一個五金零件都是製箱工匠一槌一槌的全人手手工製作，令手袋成為真正的藝術品。

PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 30: A Vuitton "Petite Malle" bag is seen, outside Giambattista Valli, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Spring Summer 2020, on September 30, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
DUESSELDORF, GERMANY - MARCH 30: Model and fashion blogger Alexandra Lapp wearing a black leather jacket from Tigha decorated with studs and little spikes, a vintage black petticoat skirt from Balmain with a belt also decorated with studs, a black tank top from James Perse, black suede sandals embellished with glittery details on the back from Aquazzura x Olivia Palermo, a black and white Petite Malle bag from Louis Vuitton and the brands suitcase shape, a crystal double ring from Giuseppe Zanotti and mirrored sunglasses in black by Saint Laurent on March 30, 2017 in Duesseldorf, Germany. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 01: A guest wears a black jacket, a Louis Vuitton Petite Malle clutch, a white floral print black flowing tunic with a hot pink floral print lavaliere, black pants with white floral print, outside Louis Vuitton, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Spring Summer 2020, on October 01, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 26: A guest wears a Louis Vuitton Petite Malle bag, outside Lanvin, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021, on February 26, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 28: A guest wears a Vuitton "petite malle" bag, outside Balmain, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021, on February 28, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 30: A Vuitton "Petite Malle" bag is seen, outside Giambattista Valli, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Spring Summer 2020, on September 30, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
DUESSELDORF, GERMANY - MARCH 30: Model and fashion blogger Alexandra Lapp wearing a black leather jacket from Tigha decorated with studs and little spikes, a vintage black petticoat skirt from Balmain with a belt also decorated with studs, a black tank top from James Perse, black suede sandals embellished with glittery details on the back from Aquazzura x Olivia Palermo, a black and white Petite Malle bag from Louis Vuitton and the brands suitcase shape, a crystal double ring from Giuseppe Zanotti and mirrored sunglasses in black by Saint Laurent on March 30, 2017 in Duesseldorf, Germany. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 01: A guest wears a black jacket, a Louis Vuitton Petite Malle clutch, a white floral print black flowing tunic with a hot pink floral print lavaliere, black pants with white floral print, outside Louis Vuitton, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Spring Summer 2020, on October 01, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 26: A guest wears a Louis Vuitton Petite Malle bag, outside Lanvin, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021, on February 26, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 28: A guest wears a Vuitton "petite malle" bag, outside Balmain, during Paris Fashion Week - Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021, on February 28, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
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雖然 Petite Malle 年紀輕輕，不過面對風起雲湧的時尚趨勢，它延伸出不少變奏，尺寸時大時小，用料與圖案亦千變萬化；簡單來說，它就像是一張四方立體的白紙，可以締造不同可能性。以2018年早春系列為例，品牌與日本鬼才設計師山本寬齋 (Kansai Yamamoto) 合作，將武士和歌舞伎眼睛圖案覆蓋手袋；又如 2021年秋冬系列，意大利家品及香氛品牌 Fornasetti 的經典藝術圖案融入在 Petite Malle 之上，姑不論後來採用軟質皮革打造的 Petite Malle Souple 系列，以及男裝創意總監 Virgil Abloh 打造的 trunk bag 是如何發揮得淋漓盡致。至於今年 Petite Malle 的春夏版本則回歸簡單，以黑色配搭金色 monogram 的方式示人，奢華感十足，必然在市場上大賣起來。題外話，原本這一季天橋之上還有一款以電影片場後幕為靈感的螢光綠款式，可惜它純屬 runway 版本，最終沒有正式推出，讓筆者覺得有一點點感到可惜。

Louis VuittonNicolas GhesquierePetite Malle

Editor

Simon Au