貴為Antwerp Six 之一的比利時設計師Ann Demeulemeester ,2013年宣佈離開自家同名品牌,並將其轉手予意大利公司Antonioli,有指Ann Demeulemeester 從此變得的商品化,失去了當年的不吃人間煙火的詩人氣息,甚麼哥德式龐克黑暗風,都只不過是由得力助手Sébastien Meunier 不斷複製。

 

 

Designer Sébastien Meunier during the Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Fall/Winter 2018-2019 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 19, 2018 in Paris, France.

Designer Sébastien Meunier during the Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Fall/Winter 2018-2019 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 19, 2018 in Paris, France.

今次就多得Antonioli的老闆Claudio Antonioli親自邀請Ann Demeulemeester和其丈夫Patrick Robyn再次出山。Claudio Antonioli曾是街牌大財團New Guards Group 的創辦人之一,過去Antonioli 將Ann Demeulemeester公司重組,精簡人手,但Ann Demeulemeester 卻在訪問中提到現在的品牌猶如跌入了深淵。

 

 

 

 

 

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 20: A model walks the runway during the Ann Demeulemeester designed by Sébastien Meunier Menswear Fall/Winter 2017-2018 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 20, 2017 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 20: A model walks the runway during the Ann Demeulemeester designed by Sébastien Meunier Menswear Fall/Winter 2017-2018 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 20, 2017 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)

過着退休生活的Ann Demeulemeester閒來學整瓷器,斷估不能相信原來她從來沒有放棄過時裝,退而不休的心態下,她又再次回歸自己的品牌,預料品牌將會有一系列改革,而位於安特惠普的旗艦店亦正裝修,有待重開,Ann Demeulemeester的丈夫表示:「希望顧客可以在這裡購物後,會得到大量的回憶、情感和意義。」

 

 

BELGIUM - SEPTEMBER 01: Illustration: Anwerp, Belgium in September, 2000 - Ann Demeulemeester fashion designer shop. (Photo by Maurice ROUGEMONT/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

BELGIUM - SEPTEMBER 01: Illustration: Anwerp, Belgium in September, 2000 - Ann Demeulemeester fashion designer shop. (Photo by Maurice ROUGEMONT/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

安特惠普Avant-Garde風潮近年沉寂了不少,似乎只有Dries Van Noten、Walter Van Beirendonck較為活躍,如今元老回潮,並為自己的創立的品牌任創意顧問,雖不會直接管理設計團隊,外間認為她今次回歸非常神聖,Ann Demeulemeester 一直都是品牌背後symbolic 的人物,期待但就足以為久違了的Avant Garde風潮繼續添油添火,啟發更多後者,希望黑暗cult潮和「態度」能夠在時裝界再抬頭。

 

I personally see it as my role to enrich the DNA in new domains and other forms.

Ann DemeluemeesterAnn Demeulemeester