During lockdown in LA back in 2020, model Yumi Nu passed the time just like anybody else: by online shopping. Nu – who has graced the pages of Vogue, and made history by becoming Sports Illustrated’s first Asian curve model – would consistently browse, and she started to notice a lack of wardrobe options in her sizes. “It became more and more obvious to me that there was this huge gap in fashion for mid- and plus-sized customers,” says Nu. With nothing but time on her hands, she then came up with a plan to start her own line.
Blueki is a new size-inclusive knitwear line that stems from Nu’s initial 2020 brainstorm. The model wanted to create an assortment of wardrobe staples that were not only available in a large range of sizes and styles, but also ethically-made. “Usually, you can find something fashionable [and accessible], but you have to ignore the fact that someone overseas is making less than $2 [to make it],” says Nu. “Or, on the other hand, you have ethically made fashion, but it costs a bit more and the styles are terrible. I wanted to make pieces that I couldn’t find for myself.”
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The first drop of six items for Blueki is focused on classic knitwear – with modern updates, such as lacing or cutouts – that are all made-to-order in New York, with sizes from an XXS to 6X. Prices range from $285 [£250] for the lace-up Bonnie corset top, to $350 [£310] for the sleek Emi turtleneck dress. “I did a lot of research on where brands stop, and most plus-size brands stop at a 3X,” says Nu. “Brands want to be inclusive, but they only want to be inclusive for the smaller end of plus-size. And there’s a lot of argument around if that’s even plus -size.”
All of the pieces are made by the 3-D knitwear factory Tailored Industry in Brooklyn. According to the factory, the manufacturing process creates less than one percent of excess material per garment. Nu chose the factory as it was also open to collaborating on the fit. “For the knitwear pieces, we graded them differently for plus-size, mid-size, and straight size,” says Nu. “All of the garments look great on everyone, but they’re personalised to the different size ranges.”
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Her experience working as a model for 13 years helped her step into the role of designer. “When I was in LA, I was working for all the top plus-size [brands],” she says. “I saw all the styles, the quality, how they fit – and some of it was very ugly. Now, I can go into a factory and say, ‘We need to add three inches to the hip, or we need a back panel for boob support.’ I’m thinking of all the things that have been missing for me over the years.”
While she’s launching Blueki with knitwear pieces, Nu has her sights set on expanding the line to include pieces like slip dresses and cargo pants. “I do understand that the plus-size customer is tired of only stretch pieces – we want pleated skirts, leather pants, and other cool, non-stretch pieces that everyone else has,” says Nu. “Fit is something I want to take a long time on, so knitwear was the easiest and most flexible thing for me to start with.” She also plans on continuing to look into her own wardrobe needs for inspiration. “I want to build out a full wardrobe for myself over the years,” she says. “Every time I’m like, ‘I really need this piece,’ I’ll just add it to my list!”
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Editor
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Lead Image: @blueki via Instagram