文化藝術是人類抒發情感和分享美感的共同形式,貴乎獨創講究個性。絕大部分cultural icons 的臉孔、神情、打扮都有某程度的特色。穿着是每個人都可參與的「行為藝術」,追求表現自我的創作人自然不會放過這個機會,在日常穿着和生活建立鮮明面貌。

UNITED KINGDOM - AUGUST 29: ISLE OF WIGHT FESTIVAL Photo of Joni MITCHELL (Photo by Tony Russell/Redferns)

UNITED KINGDOM - AUGUST 29: ISLE OF WIGHT FESTIVAL Photo of Joni MITCHELL (Photo by Tony Russell/Redferns)

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 26. French writer Francoise Sagan poses at her office during a portrait session held on june 26, 1987 in Paris, France. (Photo by Ulf Andersen/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 26. French writer Francoise Sagan poses at her office during a portrait session held on june 26, 1987 in Paris, France. (Photo by Ulf Andersen/Getty Images)

過去百多年,可能是歷史上最風起雲湧的時代。時勢造英雄也好,資訊傳播發達也好,這些強大的藝術心靈變成世界級 icons。從法國天才少女作家 Françoise Sagan到失落諾貝爾文學獎的三島由紀夫;穿着和服和她繪畫一樣聞名的 Georgia O’Keeffe 、成為時尚界致敬對象的墨西哥畫家 Frida Kahlo ……他們不但對當代文藝起了深遠影響,更形塑出時尚界趨之若鶩的個人風格。幾年前Hedi Slimane找女唱作人Joni Mitchell拍廣告,全因看中她有比模特兒更難得的歷練和aura。

Japanese writer Yukio Mishima (Kimitake Hiraoka) posing bare-chested. Tokyo, March 1970 (Photo by Mario De BiasiMondadori PortfolioMondadori via Getty Images)

Japanese writer Yukio Mishima (Kimitake Hiraoka) posing bare-chested. Tokyo, March 1970 (Photo by Mario De BiasiMondadori PortfolioMondadori via Getty Images)

NEW YORK - AUGUST 04: Patti Smith performs live on stage with The Patti Smith Group in Central Park as part of The Dr Pepper Music Festival on August 04 1978 (Photo by Richard E. Aaron/Redferns)

NEW YORK - AUGUST 04: Patti Smith performs live on stage with The Patti Smith Group in Central Park as part of The Dr Pepper Music Festival on August 04 1978 (Photo by Richard E. Aaron/Redferns)

文藝創作者對生活必然別有一番見解,並更有自信表達。他們比一般人更懂得將色彩、形態等美感轉化為形象,而這些獨一無二的形象,啟發業界轉化成令人神往的設計,譬如 Ann Demeulemeester 與其偶像 Patti Smith 。 「比時利六君子」之一Demeulemeester自少女時代聽到Smith最經典的《Horses》專輯後,就一直希望認識這位能寫詩、繪畫的美國朋克搖滾才女。最終Ann Dem在寄出三件親自設計、像發育未完成男生愛穿的白襯衫給對方後,粉絲和偶像終於相遇,往後數十年互相啟迪,讓Smith充滿叛逆精神的音樂,轉化成 Ann Dem 飄逸和中性的冷酷時裝。

(Original Caption) Washington: Painter Georgia O'Keeffe, widely regarded as the most original and most American painter, will be 83 on November 15.

(Original Caption) Washington: Painter Georgia O'Keeffe, widely regarded as the most original and most American painter, will be 83 on November 15.

circa 1945: Mexican painter Frida Kahlo (1907 - 1954) sits with her arms folded, looking down, in front of one of her paintings and a wooden bird cage. She wears flowers in her hair and a wooden necklace. (Photo by Hulton Archive/Getty Images)

circa 1945: Mexican painter Frida Kahlo (1907 - 1954) sits with her arms folded, looking down, in front of one of her paintings and a wooden bird cage. She wears flowers in her hair and a wooden necklace. (Photo by Hulton Archive/Getty Images)

自Gucci的 Alessandro Michele 崛起後,文藝間接對時尚和生活風格的影響就更大了,當中最重要之一是 Wes Anderson 電影的懷舊色彩美學——完全合乎了Instagram世代下以手機看藝術的方程式,在滑屏幕的轉瞬間瞬壯觀圖像搶人眼球。大學時主修哲學的Anderson身上那套廿年不變的燈芯絨西裝,則在2017年由Prada複製。

ROME - APRIL 12: Director Wes Anderson attends the 'Fantastic Mr Fox' photocall at La Casa Del Cinema on April 12, 2010 in Rome, Italy. (Photo by Ernesto Ruscio/Getty Images)

ROME - APRIL 12: Director Wes Anderson attends the 'Fantastic Mr Fox' photocall at La Casa Del Cinema on April 12, 2010 in Rome, Italy. (Photo by Ernesto Ruscio/Getty Images)

社交網絡的時代迫使我們越來越須要討好別人(賺like),但凡想在短期內吸引最廣泛喜愛的多是非獨特的,但同時最多人渴求的卻是舊日icons的風華,只因他們的初心是為自己而活——這就是當下文化最嚴重的悖論。