This Haute Couture season was truly one to remember. Designers from across the board demonstrated their eccentric flair through draping techniques, fine artistry, optical illusions and more.

More Than Meets The Eye

You can’t always believe everything you see. If that’s one thing Couture Week taught us, it’s that. Designers showcased their ability to manipulate certain fabrics by imitating others. Valentino’s Métier kickstarted his Couture show with a seemingly simple pair of denim jeans which are in fact made of countless miniscule pearlescent beads sewn together. This trompe l’œil was achieved through dying the beaded ‘denim’ in 80 shades of indigo. We see the same skill being practised over at 10 Avenue George V, where Balenciaga expertly hand-paints onto fabric in the guise of a fur coat.

Kaia
Valentino Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino

Valentino Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Courtesy of Valentino

Balenciaga
Balenciaga Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga

Balenciaga Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga

Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Schiaparelli Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Designers In Full Bloom

Beds of flowers lined the runways despite this couture week’s promise of an Autumn/Winter collection. Mr. Armani went so far as to form his entire collection around the rose, a symbol of passion and sophistication. His reinterpretation of the thorn-bearing flower is a reminder that resilience is beautiful.

Florals also blossomed in the garden of the Indian maestro, Rahul Mishra. His belief in working as a collective alongside his artisans is delicately illustrated in the subtleties of the floral embroideries. Upon a closer inspection, silhouettes of tiny people working can be spotted on some of the dresses, almost as if they were mini self-portraits etched into the garment’s fabric. 

Armani
Armani Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Armani Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Purple
Rahul Mishra Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Long
Chanel Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Chanel Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Pulling Back The Curtain

This couture season saw a lot of purposeful nonchalance being exercised under the roofs of many fashion houses. In particular, Valentino’s show was a lesson on effortless elegance, achieved by draping fabrics at multiple angles, particularly around the shoulders, neck and hips.

Armani
Armani Privé Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Armani Privé Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Fendi
Fendi Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Fendi Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Valentino
Valentino Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino

Valentino Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Courtesy of Valentino

Haute Sculpture

Fabric was used in abundance on a variety of runways to showcase the endless possibilities of creating innovative shapes and silhouettes. Schiaparelli’s billowing pillow-like constructions engulfed the models, oftentimes wearing them instead of being worn. Elsewhere, Balenciaga played with geometry to create scarves and long winter coats that deceivingly appeared ‘windswept’ and frozen in motion.

Imagination soared high on Thom Browne’s runway, which showcased some out-of-the-box silhouettes alongside more traditional ones such as the bell-like structured coats. The designer also toyed with negative space on the models donning cloche hats. 

Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Schiaparelli Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Balenciaga
Balenciaga Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga

Balenciaga Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga

Thom
Thom Browne Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Thom Browne Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Paint The Runway

Designers married the fine arts with haute couture by transforming their models into walking canvases. Schiaparelli took this literally and covered some models in Yves-Klein inspired electric blue spray paint, which acted as a garment in itself. This could potentially make an appearance on more runways following the revolutionary Coperni spray-on dress on Bella Hadid for the SS23 show.

Thom Browne also did not shy away from putting his artistry to good use and focused on using the model’s face as a canvas. Unlike Schiaparelli, the British couturier used a uniformed palette comprising mainly of greys, whites and golds throughout his pieces. This further accentuated the playful makeup on the faces that walked the runways as the contrast in colour created a striking visual effect.

Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Schiaparelli Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Thom
Thom Browne Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Thom Browne Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Rahul
Rahul Mishra Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Head Over Heels

Lots of emphasis was placed up top in the forms of headpieces and hats. An innumerable amount of laurel wreaths and large, furry trapper hats dominated the Jean Paul Gaultier runway whilst head drapes and a gigantic rose framing a model’s head were amongst some of the most notable headgear on the Valentino stage.  

At Thom Browne, there were echoes of the Brit’s homeland as models were decked out head-to-toe in the brand’s signature suits. The looks were topped off with cloche hats – reminiscent of church bells and clock towers, as well as a pigeon head – a cruder take on national representation.

Valentino
Valentino Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino

Valentino Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Courtesy of Valentino

Jean
Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Thom
Thom Browne Haute Couture AW23
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Thom Browne Haute Couture AW23

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com