Erdem Moralioglu’s collections always unfold like chapters of a novel — romantic, historical, and resplendent. This season, the designer’s dreamlike vision found its muse in Tina Modotti, an Italian-born photographer, silent film actress, model and political activist whose vibrant, revolutionary arc flourished during the 1920s before she met her untimely demise at the age of 45 in Mexico City.

“Each outfit was like a postcard from a part of her life,” Moralioglu said. “It was the waistless-ness, tiers, the combination of Victorian dress and traditional [Mexican] dress that interested me.” The show opened with a look marking the beginning of Modotti’s sartorial narrative: a white polka-dot black skirt suit, with a slim and structured fit making the connection to Italian tailoring. A short series of neutral-toned outfits followed — a sheer black lace dress and a beige trench coat reminiscent of the silent film era — that premised a full bloom of volume and saturation.

Dresses of fantastical proportions with puff sleeves, ruffled tiers, high necklines and exotic floral prints flourished in shades of marigold, fuchsia, leaf green and turquoise. Classical accessories like wide-brimmed boat hats, bonnets, chandelier earrings and satin gloves were counterbalanced only by the tight, glossy single hair braids that models wore with a bow tied at the bottom. Modotti’s time in Mexico City, during which she became close friends with Frida Kahlo, was reflected in the colourful poplin peasant blouses, woven Baja knits and fringed Sarape shawls that gracefully draped across the shoulders.