New York
Palomo Spain
Palomo’s Spring 2024 collection, “Cruising in the Rose Garden” celebrated the endless possibilities of menswear and the fluid nature of gender. Corsets, micro shorts and man-bras were amongst the repertoire of items that were sent down the runway of The Plaza hotel. A focus of Palomo’s this season was on the duality of human nature and the push and pull that makes way for a balance – he describes one side of him to be an “idyllic” hopeless romantic whilst the other he labelled as “cruisy” and dark. Models were instructed to make eye contact with the crowd, exercising the intricate subtleties of love that pass between two people.
Kim Shui
It-girl favourite Kim Shui has been worn by the likes of Blackpink, Sza, Devon Lee Carlson and Dua Lipa. This season, Shui marries the cultures of Italy, where she grew up, together with China, as a nod to her Chinese heritage. The designer incorporated the use of mud silk, a Chinese sacred fabric, in this collection’s qipaos with sultry cutouts at the chest, creating a modern spin on the traditional dress. Lace details and sumptuous colour combinations emulated an edge of sophistication whilst tiny bralettes and thigh-high cutouts maintained the label’s cool girl element.
Ashlyn So
15 year-old Ashlyn So combines fashion and activism, advocating for the de-stigmatisation of mental health within the Asian community. The young designer showcased a captivating collection this fashion week full of stunningly intentional silhouettes crafted from organza and reflective fabric. Off the runway, Ashlyn actively speaks out against racism, with a particular emphasis on combatting discrimination against Asian-Americans, even taking the initiative to organise her own rallies.
London
Supriya Lele
Supriya Lele is undeniably an emerging force in fashion. The British-Indian designer seamlessly blends elements from her dual heritage identity, drawing inspiration from both noughties club culture, in the form of boob tubes and miniskirts as well as traditional Indian attire such as saris. The result is a perfect fusion which makes up the wardrobe of a modern day cool girl, such as the orange sari dress Dua Lipa slipped on for her 25th birthday or the 90’s inspired black leather coat that Bella Hadid flaunted in the streets of Paris.
Susan Fang
Dubbed as one of China’s most promising emerging designers, Susan Fang’s approach to design is one of a whimsical Wonderland-esque nature. A lover of tulle, ribbons, feathers and all things hyper-feminine, Fang comments on the purpose of her designs not needing to be an exact reflection of one’s internal values. She shares that wearing soft clothes does not necessarily mean we are soft inside.
Ancuta Sarca
Seen on the Kardashians, Rihanna and Bella Hadid, shoewear brand Ancuta Sarca has been stepping it up recently. Born in Romania and now based in London, Sarca’s trademark “trainer heel” has become an ubiquitous presence. As an upcycling brand, the rising designer combines pre-loved trainers and vintage heels to create each unique pair, offering an element of newness in the shoe game.
Milan
Karoline Vitto
Karoline Vitto will debut her first fashion show at this Milan Fashion Week, backed by Dolce & Gabbana. The Brazilian born, London-based designer creates garments for women between UK sizes 8-28, celebrating the natural curves of the female body. Having grown up in Eurocentric Brazil, the beauty standards of a woman’s body were very stringent. In her designs, Vitto advocates for showing everything a woman was taught to hide, having particular cutouts in garments such as at the hips to highlight the natural folds and soft textures of the body.
Shuting Qiu
Hailing from Hangzhou, Shuting Qiu boasts an impressive international background. With previous showcases in New York and Milan and now based in Shanghai, Qiu has had quite the worldly resumé. Having started as an artist before transitioning into a designer, Qiu’s artistic roots shine in her remarkable ability to translate brush strokes between the mediums of canvas and fabric. Never straying away from her origins in the fine arts, the designer often pays homage to painters such as Bernard Frize for her last Spring collection in 2023 where she showcased her conscientiousness in uniting a variety of patterns and colourations.
Avavav
If you’re looking for avant-garde, quirky fashion moments, AVAVAV is right up your alley. For her Autumn 2023 show, Swedish designer Beate Karlsson focused on creating a theatrical runway experience. She instructed her models to intentionally fall as heels of shoes broke off and bags fell to pieces on the catwalk. The theme of the collection was “Fake It Till You Break It” and it aimed to shed light on what luxury fashion truly entails, going viral on several social media platforms for its thought-provoking commentary.
Paris
RUI
New York-based Chinese designer Rui Zhou pushes the boundaries of traditional silhouettes by redefining the way garments interact with the body. Her creations transcend the typical bodysuit or tank top which we are so familiar with. Being versatile in their use, her garments can be worn as part of an everyday ensemble, or in the case of Jennie from BLACKPINK, as a concert outfit on the Born Pink stage. Zhou’s design philosophy revolves around manipulating fabrics, in the form of circular cutout motifs which play with the negative space between the skin and fabric. Her innovative approach to design is also present in her use of the body as a frame, stripping away connotations of clothing to a particular gender.
Duran Lantink
Visionary Dutch designer Duran Lantink’s approach to fashion is one of deconstruction. He takes apart luxury fashion garments in order to completely transform them into new creations. From an early age, Lantink experimented at home with his family’s clothes, once combining his grandma’s skirt, a tablecloth and his father’s Diesel jeans together for a piece he created at the age of 15. He has caught the attention of countless celebs such as Billie Eilish who wore his custom designs for Dazed Magazine’s Spring/Summer 2020 edition.
Didu
Di Du’s namesake label is a remarkable fusion of her Chinese heritage and her Belgian education at the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Art. With a keen focus on shapes, cuts, techniques and the use of sustainable fabrics, DIDU embodies hyper-femininity, subversion and futurism for women. By seamlessly integrating Eastern and Western cultures, she aspires to foster a sense of self-love and self-acceptance, empowering women to be comfortable in their own skin.
Editor
Christy LamCredit
Lead Image: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com