Balenciaga的模特兒穿著一件碩大肩膀的西裝走向台前時,你就意識到oversized時尚依然在流行,也不打算結束。回看時裝展天橋上的造型,The Row在2024春夏系列中,塞進了超大號的針織褲。

Balenciaga 2024 Spring
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The Row 2024 Spring
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Balenciaga 2024 Spring
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The Row 2024 Spring
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Givenchy 2024春夏系列中,寬廓形外套、超長長裙等平時並不常見的oversize風格竟然出現在了這個以簡潔和優雅線條著稱的法國時裝屋中;Prada也同樣將外套的肩膀做了延展,顯得更加碩大。顯然,Oversized這一趨勢依然在膨脹。

Givenchy 2024 Spring.
Image via Getty Image
Givenchy 2024 Spring.
Image via Getty Image
Prada 2024 Spring.
Image via Getty Image
Givenchy 2024 Spring.
Image via Getty Image
Givenchy 2024 Spring.
Image via Getty Image
Prada 2024 Spring.
Image via Getty Image
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Oversized曾代表了邊緣青年文化,甚至象徵著貧窮?

歷史上的女性時尚並不是像今天一樣,如此大膽地擁抱加大號的一切型態。Christian Dior在上個世紀所做的設計都如此貼合女性身體,優雅的曲線都是必備的。而Oversized在某種意義上意味著貧窮,它可能是姐姐們傳下來的衣物。

(Original Caption) 1943: ZOOT SUITS... : Zoot by any other name- a patriot just the same. Photograph.

(Original Caption) 1943: ZOOT SUITS... : Zoot by any other name- a patriot just the same. Photograph.

另一方面,Oversized還和邊緣化的族群有關,在美國,這種寬鬆的服飾美學最先在南加州的墨西哥裔青年中流行,比如高腰的zoot suits。但隨著時代的變遷,Oversized時尚也有了文化層面的意義改變。

(Original Caption) 9/11/1942-Los Angeles, California- This trio of "sharpies" sport their choice wardrobe at a Los Angeles night club. It is rumored that the cuffs on some zoot suits are so tight that they require zippers to get the trousers off and on. However popular these creations may be with the hep set, Washington considers the knee-length coats and the barrage balloon pants unpatriotic.
Musicians in Zoot Suits for Hit Parade of 1943. (Photo by UPI/Bettmann via Getty Images)
(Original Caption) 9/11/1942-Los Angeles, California- This trio of "sharpies" sport their choice wardrobe at a Los Angeles night club. It is rumored that the cuffs on some zoot suits are so tight that they require zippers to get the trousers off and on. However popular these creations may be with the hep set, Washington considers the knee-length coats and the barrage balloon pants unpatriotic.
Musicians in Zoot Suits for Hit Parade of 1943. (Photo by UPI/Bettmann via Getty Images)
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1970年代,戰後青年文化在英美等國蓬勃發展,女性意識也逐漸興起,反叛的氛圍抬升。張揚寬大的喇叭褲開始流行,「男友風」外套成為女性主義者用來縮小性別差距的武器,闊腿褲、大碼襯衫也都蔚然成風。今天來看,Oversized著裝在女性時尚間的流行,儼然是一種社會思潮的進步。

Pedestrians photographed for WWD's 'They Are Wearing' feature. (Photo by Fairchild Archive/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images)
The Three Degrees (Sheila Ferguson, Valerie Holiday, Fayette Pickney), a American female singing group pictured in a London street. (Photo by Tim Graham/Getty Images)
Pedestrians photographed for WWD's 'They Are Wearing' feature. (Photo by Fairchild Archive/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images)
The Three Degrees (Sheila Ferguson, Valerie Holiday, Fayette Pickney), a American female singing group pictured in a London street. (Photo by Tim Graham/Getty Images)
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Oversized不只是嘻哈文化的穿搭標誌,也是運動休閒和鬆弛感穿搭的關鍵

時隔這麼多年,為何Oversized時尚在今天依然佔據重要地位和版面?首要原因和過去二三十年間嘻哈文化、街頭文化在全球範圍的流行脫不了關係。Oversized服裝風格一度是嘻哈文化中的一個重要標誌,超大號的牛仔褲和牛仔外套成為了每一個嘻哈迷的必備,也深刻影響了當時的時尚潮流和風格。到今天,嘻哈、街頭文化依然在影響時尚。

FUBU founders J. Alexander Martin, Daymond John and Keith C. Perin poses for photos on the red carpet while attending the 'Lennox Lewis After-Fight Party by FUBU' in Los Angeles, California in June 2003. (Photo By Raymond Boyd/Getty Images)

FUBU founders J. Alexander Martin, Daymond John and Keith C. Perin poses for photos on the red carpet while attending the 'Lennox Lewis After-Fight Party by FUBU' in Los Angeles, California in June 2003. (Photo By Raymond Boyd/Getty Images)

運動休閒也是過去十年來的一大風格,像Blackpink成員Jennie、宋智孝等韓星都經常以Oversized T恤搭配外套,或者運動休閒的風格結合。Oversized穿搭極具慵懶、便利度和舒適感,以及造型感的特質,也讓Rihanna、Kendall Jenner等時尚icon們屢屢上身,演繹實在的「鬆弛感」穿搭。

 

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從Rihanna到Kendall Jenner,揭曉Oversized當下造型特點!

Rihanna

Margot Robbie

Emily Ratajkowski

Kendall Jenner