The 96th Academy Awards has come to a close and there were countless memorable moments to recount: Ryan Gosling brought the Ken-ergy with his performance of “I’m Just Ken”, Emma Stone graciously accepted her second best actress win in Louis Vuitton and first-time nominee Cillian Murphy took home the award for best actor for his role in Oppenheimer.
The newly minted Best Actor attended the ceremony in a custom Versace tuxedo and a gold brooch hailing from the Hong Kong brand Sauvereign. The meticulously crafted “HS14” brooch took 150 hours to create and it all started from the brand’s founder and designer Bertrand Mak. The shape of the brooch was inspired by the interior structure of Oppenheimer’s world-altering invention.
HOLLYWOOD, CALIFORNIA - MARCH 10: Cillian Murphy attends the 96th Annual Academy Awards on March 10, 2024 in Hollywood, California. (Photo by JC Olivera/Getty Images)
Sauvereign was formerly known as R.Sanderson and their signature is the 24-carat gold leaf heels. Founder Bertrand Mak has a rich portfolio in the luxury business with experience as an intern at Louis Vuitton and watch specialist at Christie’s. With his vast background in the luxury industry and a penchant for the arts since childhood, he established his own brand Sauvereign.
Sauvereign has developed its own gold leaf technology, working with ateliers in Italy and elsewhere to achieve exquisite hand-craftsmanship. Luxurious designs with artistic flair have become synonymous with the brand. Take Murphy’s brooch for example, which is cut, finished, and assembled by the hands of master craftsman Kari Voutilainen in Val-de-Travers, Switzerland. Seeing it appear on an international stage like the Oscars was a true shot in the arm for Hong Kong’s fashion and luxury industries.
Can you tell us how this collaboration between Sauvereign and Cillian Murphy came about? Why did you start this collaboration?
I met the renowned stylist of Cillian Murphy in London last December. Rose Forde was forward-thinking and progressive – valuing creativity and quality beyond fame and popularity, which allows independents such as myself and Sauvereign to have a chance in proving our worth amongst the usual suspects on a truly global stage. Over lunch Rose remarked that she was toying the idea of a pin for Murphy and ask if I would propose a design. Although never intended for the Oscars, it was a unique opportunity that I couldn’t refuse, even if it were to only end up on his dressing gown.
The short answer is that Murphy’s award-worthy performance and the Oscars occasion is a once in a lifetime opportunity, which by the way cannot be initiated by my own wants, but serendipity.
I greatly admire the conscious choices he has made in the past 30 odd years to be where he is today. I can personally relate to them, which has helped me find balance in the design that was able to evoke Cillian’s emotions.
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How do you feel about your brand’s presence at the Oscars? What does it mean for your brand and for Hong Kong‘s fashion brands?
It is a victory for beauty, purity, and those who still persevere with substance in our very noisy and complicated world. Sauvereign’s presence on Murphy at the Oscars and the very moment he fulfils his destiny is a testament that, with hard work and a bit of luck, it is not unimaginable for an independent brand from Hong Kong to climb to one of the world’s biggest fashion stages.
Sauvereign and I shall continue to strive for originality, creativity and excellence. One swallow doesn’t make a summer, though without a doubt this small moment of triumph has catalysed more new ideas and chemistry that I am excited to present in the near future. We have to keep climbing to prove and inspire, and the proof will always be in the pudding.
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Can you share with our readers the story behind this design?
The design has a quiet intensity that is strong but silent, mirroring Murphy’s enigmatic personality. It is no surprise that the unique HS14 was inspired by Oppenheimer. It embodies the dedication of both J. Robert Oppenheimer and Cillian Murphy to their respective craft, symbolic of artistry, intellect, and integrity. Its essence lies within the scrupulous and intensive consideration that has gone into every detail, beyond what meets the eye. As a one-of-a-kind bespoke object expressly for Murphy and for the Oscars, the genesis, of course, is from his role in the film, but I intend to leave room for imagination and personal interpretation. Hint: the trapezium.
What are the style characteristics and brand positioning of your brand?
Sauvereign is recognised by its precious artisanal art objects that span across footwear, leather goods, jewellery, home decor, and fine art. Utilising a wide range of traditional and unexpected mediums, we collaborate with a roster of international artisans and masters of diverse disciplines to catalyse creativity and imagination. Each collectively handcrafted object embodies the savoir-faire, creativity, and hertiage of both preceding and prevailing generations. Always pushing the boundaries of techniques and materials, each Sauvereign creation is inimitable and reveals surprising details only upon inspection, exemplified by the HS14 Gem Brooch expressly created for Cillian Murphy.
Editor
Junjie Wang
