Vogue Circle 26 Nov 2024

Antonia da Cruz: An Ode To The Rive Gauche

An idyllic stay on the southern bank of the river Seine

by Antonia da Cruz

I must confess that whenever I visit Paris I spend most of my time frequenting the right bank, as opposed to Rive Gauche. And I’ve totally forgotten how much beauty and culture this particular side of the Seine has to offer. Having just left the chaos of the souks in Marrakech, I couldn’t resist a stopover next to the Latin Quarter. Jazzy, romantic, and relaxed vibes was just what I was after. I usually require two things when I travel, wellness offerings ideally at an eco friendly hotel. So my travel concierge Matthew Rian booked me into Hotel Lutetia, and not only did it check all my boxes, but it well and truly exceeded my expectations. An iconic landmark in itself, the hotel is the only palatial hotel on the left bank, which has recently undergone significant renovations (reopening their doors in 2018) portraying more Art Deco vibes to truly reflect the epitome of Parisian lifestyle. Its prime location in the 6th arrondissement, the beating heart of Saint Germain des Prés, is just a stone’s throw away from the oldest department store in Paris, Le Bon Marché.

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The hotel was originally opened as a pied-à-terre for clientele of Le Bon Marché; Picasso and Matisse used to call it home, and you can understand why! Now with its 184 revamped guest rooms including 47 suites (if you’re lucky you may just get one with a panoramic view of the City of Light and the Eiffel Tower!), its new finishings include all white marble bathrooms, luxury branded accessories, automated touch screen interfaces which facilitate all room functions, and of course, personalised embroidered pillow cases.

French dancer, singer and actress, Joséphine Baker, whom the bar is aptly named after was a habitué herself. And I absolutely adore this bar for its eye-catching floor-to-ceiling Art Nouveau frescoes. Emphasising Lutetia’s link to the graphic arts, even the menu takes you on a journey to the fascinating world of the comic strip, the “ninth art”. Each cocktail is like a captivating story, and is meticulously combined with modern and unique flavours. Should you chance a visit Thursday through Sunday you will also be able enjoy the live jazz shows which truly heighten the overall experience.

As for restaurants, the Brasserie Lutetia is already a renowned culinary destination of the Rive Gauche with an extensive menu of neighbourhood classics and contemporary surprises. But I would highly recommend coming for the famous Salon Saint-Germain afternoon tea and to simply admire its rose painted glass ceilings. Or if you fancy a cigar, you can simply relax in the Orangerie or its private club Bar Aristide.

Last but not least, the hotel also boasts a 700m2 spa that comes with a 17 metre long pool. Dedicated entirely to wellbeing, fitness and relaxation, Akasha Wellness includes a sauna, jacuzzi, beauty salon, and gym.

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Once you are ready to leave your luxury abode, for those wanting to reacquaint themselves with the area, I would highly recommend going on a walking tour through the sprawling green oasis that is the Jardins du Luxembourg, whose landscape is particularly unique given it combines elements of French, Italian (inspired by the Boboli Gardens in Florence) and English design. Whilst the standout feature is the Palais du Luxembourg. You also shouldn’t miss the famous 16th century, Italian styled grotto, the Fontaine Médicis (Medici Fountain), which is somewhat mythical in itself exuding shaded and dusky vibes. Continuing your walk out of the gardens, head towards the Panthéon into the 5th arrondissement, the Latin Quarter. A sight to behold, this patriotic monument is a mix of neoclassical and Gothic architecture, and serves as a burial crypt for famous French personalities, prominent writers like Victor Hugo, Voltaire and also physicist/chemist Marie Curie, the only woman honoured here on the basis of her own merit.

Emily in Paris fans will also be pleased as there was a famous scene from the series where Emily breaks up with her boyfriend outside the Panthéon, and incidentally, Emily’s home is just around the corner on Place de l’Estrapade if you need that photo opp. Otherwise for a more authentic slice of La Vie Parisienne, head east to Place de la Contrescarpe and down south along Rue Mouffetard (one of the oldest streets in Paris, more affectionately called “la Mouffe”), a very lively street and home to a beautiful street market with fresh products, cheeses, you name it. Apparently the street was a huge inspiration to Victor Hugo when he wrote Les Miserables. The other market worth visiting is back up along Rue Monge and its surrounding quartier in the heart of the Latin Quarter. As you walk back into the 6th, two other vibrant streets to check out are Rue de Buci and Rue Saint-André des Arts which are packed with little shops and restaurants. If you’re looking for culture, you’ll find two of the most revered arthouse cinemas, the Christine 21, and St Andre des Arts. If you’re looking for interior decoration shops, have a wander along Rue Jacob, in particular these three shops, Caravane, Alex D. Reynis, and Caspari.

Last but not least, continue your tour up north towards Île de la Cité on the 4th, and visit the new and improved Notre-Dame, which will reopen fully restored to its former glory later this year on December 8. When I watched the tragic fire that engulfed the cathedral on the news, it brought back memories of the last time I set foot here (I must have been 20) and I made a silent promise to myself to return some day. Just next door is Sainte-Chapelle equally as stunning, but in a different Gothic style. There are also so many museums to visit but if you only have time to visit one on the Left Bank it should be Musee’ D’Orsay. It has a huge array of masterpieces from the Impressionist period showcasing works by Renoir, Monet and Van Gosh.

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All that walking will surely muster up an appetite, so whilst I don’t claim to be super knowledgeable about restaurants in the 5th and 6th, my husband and I did get to visit our favourite steak and frites restaurant le Relais de l’Entrecôte, even though you may have queue over an hour for it. It’s classic, fuss free and you just know what you’re going to get! Around the corner from this branch, you will also find two cafés, Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots right next to each other. A great spot for people watching, these famous rival cafés were regularly frequented by philosophers and writers, even such as Ernest Hemingway. If you are looking for a classic bistro, then you must visit Alain Ducasse’s Allard. Whilst the duck is a classic, the dish I really enjoyed was their Fernande Allard-style frog legs – absolutely divine! For something more risque, Lapérouse also known as the House of Pleasures was actually the first three Michelin-starred restaurant back in 1933. Its richly decorated salons oozes French sexuality, giving off that “joie de vivre”.