There are more than 4,000 types of chillis in the world—some tingle with no taste of spice, but some set your mouth on fire with a single nibble. While different cultures utilise chillis in different ways, these three chefs have created three distinct dishes according to Hong Kong people’s tastebuds, bringing diners on a spice journey tailored to their palates.
Wakaran
Wakaran tells the culinary story of cultures coming together. Its Chinese name (和華蘭) is the combination of letters referring to Japan, China, and the Netherlands. Simultaneously, ‘wakaran’ is an abbreviation of the Japanese word ‘wakaranai’, meaning ‘I don’t understand’, linking to the restaurant’s philosophy that it isn’t anybody’s place to tell others how to eat or cook.
During Chef Tommy Tsui’s travels to Korea, scenes of street vendors selling pots of red hot ttebokki inspired him to work with this ingredient. He decided to substitute pasta with ttebokki in the beloved Pasta alla Vodka dish, cooking the rice cakes with tomatoes and vodka for a cultural-crossover. Rather than gochujang and chilli powder, he opted for Chinese-style chopped chillis which takes the heat up a notch. The result? A moreish and creamy delight that perfectly pairs with a cold winter day.
Shop B, G/F, Pinnacle Building, 9 Ship St, Wan Chai; @wakaranhk
Rêveri
Meaning “daydream” in French, Rêveri is where husband-and-wife duo Jessica Kesumo and Chef John Law have actualised their culinary dreams. Their intimate nook in Sheung Wan utilises premium Japanese ingredients that are cooked with the heart.
“Simple” and “humble” is how Chef Law would describe their food, while Kesumo adds that they hope diners would feel like they’re dining at their friend’s home. Their Sansho Chicken Claypot Rice is comforting like a friend’s hug. Steam rises from the clay pot where Japanese chicken, seasoned with sansho powder, sits atop a bed of fluffy rice. The heartwarming dish is garnished with scallions, nasturtium leaves, and topped with gems of ikura that burst with umami. Completing the dish are slices of jalapeno—its crunchiness brings textural contrast to the hearty meal and a subtle kick of spice that brings the dish to life.
G/F, 20, 24 Mercer St, Sheung Wan; @restaurantreveri
Jee
Chef Oliver brings decades of French cooking experience to Cantonese restaurant Jee—a joint project with Chef Siu from Ying Jee Club. “French and Chinese cuisine have something in common,” Chef Oliver says, “French cuisine focuses on seasonality, and Chinese cuisine is the same. When we’re coming up with the menu, we always find the ingredients that are in season.”
Reminiscing over his mother’s home-cooked food, Chef Oliver created his grown-up take of the fried prawns in tomato sauce. “My mom used to love to make this dish, but now that I’ve grown up, of course we’re elevating the prawns.” Using lobster instead, he first fries the lobster in curry powder, a method he learnt when preparing frog legs in French cuisine. The undertones of fragrant spices pair well with the sweet and tangy sauce that coats the lobster. Noticing Hong Kong people’s appetite for spice, he added Sichuan peppercorn to the dish for an addictive mala sensation. Finally, the lobster is topped with pistachio and buckwheat for texture and beads of finger lime for a touch of acidity.
2/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central; @jeehongkong
Photography: Samantha Sin
Styling: Ella Wong
