Did you know that the ideal cleansing method differs country by country? From Australia’s plant-based methods to the ancient Indian techniques of Ayurveda cleansing, behind each cleansing method is a cultural story yet untold. Vogue went on a global tour to find out the skin secrets of eight beauty gurus around the world. Is there a possibility that the way we cleanse is based on where we live?
Australia: Botanical rich creams
Background
“Australians keep nature close to their heart. They have always been interested in the healing properties from natural ingredients around us,” says MV Organic founder Sharon McGlinchey. “Especially interesting are the natural ingredients abundant in Australia as many of them have grown in quite harsh environments, and because of that they have some unique properties that cannot be found elsewhere.”
The go-to cleansing method
Cream-based cleansers are known to exfoliate dead skin gently and effectively off the skin.
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“You can use cotton wool or water to clean the cream off. If you use steam as well, you can make your everyday cleansing routine a lot more effective,” recommends McGlinchey.
Japan: Foaming cream cleanser using a 4-2-4 technique
Background
The 4-2-4 cleansing method involves massaging in oil for four minutes, using a foaming cleanser for two minutes, and rinsing for four minutes. “Rinsing for four minutes is especially unique,” Shiseido’s marketing manager Miyabi Kumagai tells us. The keyword is “purification,” based on the traditional medical cleansing methods of Misogi (Shinto ritual purification).
The go-to cleansing method
Most Japanese women use a soft very creamy type of foam cleanser, the type that changes into a bubbly foam when met with water. It might just feel like bubbles for those who are new to this, but, after a while, it will feel sensational to cleanse your face this way.
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Invest in a “foaming net”. Even if you use the same foam product, it’s a totally different experience when combined with a foaming net. This way, even the softest, gentlest foam can help to lessen the stress to your skin while also cleaning out the smallest dirt between your pores.
India: Exfoliating cleanser using ubtan
Background
According to the ancient medical properties of Ayurveda, to keep our skin clean, we must cleanse out the toxins in our body as well. By that they mean that cleaning just our face is not enough. Mauli Rituals founder Anita Kaushal tells us “the best way to practice Ayurveda is by mixing everyday ingredients found in your house. For example, if you’re looking to heal your scars, use honey. If you’re looking for anti-oxidant properties use green tea, and if you’re looking for vitamin C for your face, use Indian gooseberry.”
The go-to cleansing method
Traditionally the favourite of Indian queens and princess, the ubtan mask continues to be India’s favourite beauty item,” Kaushal tells us. You can use Mauli’s Radiance Exfoliant to make a modern version of this mask. The exfoliant features rare Kashmir saffron and anti-inflammatory sandalwood.
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“The ubtan mask is very compatible with other skincare products. Mix the ubtan powder into the gel cleanser you’re using to make the perfect exfoliator. Or you can mix with rosewater and keep on your face for five to 10 minutes for a detoxifying mask.”
France: Micellar cleansing water
Background
For the French who look for comfort and effortlessness in their lifestyle, it’s not surprising that their cleansing techniques are simple, straightforward and effective.
The go-to cleansing method
“A micellar cleansing water incorporated with a tiny amount of essential oils is an effective way to gently swipe away impurities in the face,” Nuxe’s Scientific Communication Director Ingrid Pernet tells us.
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On hot summer days, French women tend to keep their micellar water in the fridge. When cleansing, it’s not only refreshingly cool on your face but can also help tighten pores.
South Korea: Two-step cleansing, oil-based and then a water-based cleanser
Background
“For Koreans, cleansing is not just a beauty step, it’s a lifestyle. It’s the result of decades of scientific research into skin. K-beauty is an international sensation for a reason,” says Soko Glam’s curator and representative Charlotte Cho.
The go-to cleansing method
K-beauty’s cleansing method has two steps. First they use a liquid or balm-based oil cleanser, and then finish with a water-based cleanser.
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“If you took 15 minutes to put your makeup on, your cleansing method should take longer.” Oil cleansers are particularly effective, permeating deep into your skin to clean all the impurities.
China: Gel oil cleanser focusing on anti-pollution
Background
Throughout China’s 4000-year history, a variety of beauty techniques have come and gone, but the secret has always been focused on traditional Chinese medicine. “The pressure points in the face is also where one maintains their Qi (energy),” facialist Su-Man explains to us. “Traditional Chinese medicine believes that when cleansing, it’s important to massage these pressure points. It helps in allowing the skin to absorb the nutrients of the skin products used after the cleansing.”
The go-to cleansing method
“Chinese women like to use light gel-based cleansing products that gradually transform into an oil after massaging onto the skin. This type of cleansing is gentle and protects the skin’s barrier,” Chinese-medicine specialist and facialist Natalia Robinson explains to us. “Moreover, it’s great for tackling the effects of pollution on the face, a concern for many who live in a city.”
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You can achieve healthy skin by incorporating the pressure points into your everyday routine. “Start with massaging your eye area first, and then head onto the middle of your cheeks, the upper part of your face and then to the chin. This way your eye area will be brightened and your skin will feel tightened and lifted,” Su-man continues. “If you massage it this way, the energy around your face will restore the skin’s balance”.
England: Balms and hot cloth cleansers
Background
“Cold creams that our grandmothers removed with cotton wool have given way to hot cloth cleansers,” says facialist and skincare founder Amanda Lacey. “The difference is that they maintain the skin’s 5.5 pH, so as not to disrupt the acid mantle.”
The go-to cleansing method
Nourishing balms that are later removed with a cloth. Examples include Lacey’s own Cleansing Pomade, Liz Earle’s Cleanse & Polish and Emma Hardie’s Moringa Balm. These hydrating formulas dissolve make-up while the cloth keeps the skin feeling polished and clean.
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“Take a coin-sized amount, warm it between your fingers and then massage into dry skin. Dip the cloth into warm water, hold over your face to dissolve the dirt and make up. Wipe it off slowly. You don’t need to splash with cold water, as pores don’t open and close like doors. Instead pat your skin dry and immediately reach for your go-to skin serum to protect the acid mantle.”
USA: Wash off type focusing on deep-cleansing
Background
“History has taught us that we have a responsibility to properly cleanse our skin,” global GM Leslie Harris of SkinCeuticals tells us. “The 1800s have bequeathed us with cleansing methods from the very first immigrants and, in a way, ‘becoming clean’ has become somewhat synonymous with ‘becoming American’.”
The go-to cleansing method
Cleansing is a 300 million dollar industry. Which gel will most effectively clean away all the dirt on our faces – there’s a whole market based on that. “The formula has changed quite a bit over the years, but overall, Americans prefer the deep-cleansing type,” Harris tells us. SkinCeuticals or Glossie are currently promoting “creamy gel-cleansers” with kinder ingredients to the skin, but with the same functions of pore-tightening and deep-cleansing.
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“Americans like efficiency,” Harris continues. “I recommend using two different products at once. First melt off the make up with a cream cleanser, and then follow up with an enzyme gel that cleans off the dead skin. Leave it on for at least 30 seconds before rinsing. This is the most modern American-style cleansing I recommend. It’s clean and refreshing and doesn’t destroy the original skin barrier.”
Originally published on Vogue Korea