Gather around the dinner table and revel in the festive season with these magical wintertime desserts crafted by masterful Hong Kong chefs.
Ankôma
Chef Frankie Wong of Ankôma is among the rising stars of Hong Kong’s ever-evolving culinary scene. Despite notable experience at prestigious establishments like the recently shuttered ZEST by Konishi and Écriture led by Chef Maxime Gilbert, Wong admits that desserts had never been his forte. “I graduated from the International Culinary Institute and my basic skills are learnt most from the years in acquiring the European Cuisine diploma. We didn’t learn much about dessert in school and since I started working in restaurants, desserts were always taken care of by the pastry team,” he reveals. “At Ankôma, as we are confined by size, we couldn’t hire a pastry chef. So I learn how to make desserts through extensive research on the internet, books, and asking for advice from my pastry chef friends.”
Despite Wong’s honesty, one would never guess that his dessert skills are majority self-taught. His latest sweet creation demonstrates the masterful blend of French and Japanese culinary techniques that define his restaurant. Reinventing the LeTAO triple-layered cheesecakes everyone and their mother brings back as souvenirs from Japan, Wong’s yuzu matcha cheesecake introduces fresh flavours and textures into the mix.
“To enhance the layers and textures, I’ve incorporated honey crisps and almond cookies, which add extra crunch and make it 5 layers in total. The soft and refreshing taste of the yuzu mousse, the lightness of the matcha sponge cake, and the richness of the matcha cheesecake bring various textures and flavours to the dessert. The yuzu helps to balance out some of the bitterness naturally found in matcha.”
5/F, Kam Lung Commercial Centre, 5/F, 2 Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui; @ankoma_hk
Hong Kong Cuisine 1983
Chef Silas Li’s love for desserts goes way back. Though he’s lauded for his innovative approach to Chinese cuisine and dedication to preserving its culture, Li’s formal training in French gastronomy shows through the unexpectedly extravagant desserts of Hong Kong Cuisine 1983’s menu. “While my roots are in French cooking, I have always been fascinated by both Chinese and Western desserts. Each has its unique charm, but I have noticed that when it comes to plating and presentation, Western desserts often offer a more elaborate aesthetic,” he says. “This distinction inspires me to bring a creative flair to my own interpretations of Chinese desserts, blending traditional elements with innovative presentation techniques.”
For this December issue, Li flexes his creative muscles with yet another bespoke dish for Vogue Hong Kong. Drawing inspiration from winter landscapes and festive decor, this edible intricate centrepiece looks to capture “the essence of winter and the joy of the festive season” through a key trio of traditional Chinese flavours: Red bean to symbolise good luck and precious moments with family, dried tangerine for its vivid hue representative of the spirit of the season, and coconut for a richness reminiscent of the warmth and comfort of home.
“The parfait starts with the comforting red bean base, followed by the spheres: the red bean sphere offers a concentrated burst of flavour, while the dried tangerine sphere introduces a bright, citrusy note along with aromatic qualities that not only uplifts the dessert, but adds a slightly bitter note that beautifully balances the sweetness of the other elements,” explains Li. “The coconut sphere contributes a subtle sweetness and tropical flair, rounding out the flavour profile.”
1/F, Elegance Court, 2-4 Tsoi Tak Street, Happy Valley; 1983hkc.com
Finessence Pâtisserie
“My journey in the world of pastry began at the age of 14, when I discovered the joy of baking. I realised that mixing ingredients was akin to chemistry—each combination brought something new to life. This early passion was nurtured by my family and fuelled by countless hours spent reading Japanese and French cookbooks. Each recipe I tried felt like a new adventure,” shares award-winning pastry chef Mandy Siu.
After years spent honing her craft at L’Atelier de Robuchon and esteemed five-star hotels, Siu achieved her dreams when she launched her own pastry atelier in 2022 called Finessence Pâtisserie. The first product she released under this new venture was a galette de rois, a classic French pastry that not only showcases her culinary prowess but is a cherished part of her story. “It holds a special memory for me from my commis days working at Robuchon,” shares Siu. “I fell in love with it from the very first bite, as it combines delicate almond and vanilla aromas with an extra flaky inverse puff pastry. It’s one of my favourite pastries, and I believe that one piece can truly make my day.”
Reimagined anew each year, Siu’s galette de rois this season derives inspiration from another festive delicacy: Panettone. The cake features a traditional frangipane filling, but is enhanced with 60% marzipan, dried fruits like orange peel, almonds, amaretto, and Finessence Pâtisserie’s ultra-flaky signature inverse puff pastry. To honour the playful traditions of the dessert, Siu also bakes a small trinket called a fève into the cake for guests to find, crafting a memorable experience shared amongst friends and family.
5/F, Good Harvest Industrial Building, 9 Tsun Wen Road, Tuen Mun; finessencepatisserie.com
Editor
Alyanna Raissa J. PayosCredit
Lead image: Samantha Sin and Ella Wong for Vogue Hong Kong's December 2024 issue
