Stepping through the grandiose green gates of Palace Garden, one is transported to an enchanted vision of the past conjured by none other than Alan Chan. For the Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau’s flagship restaurant, the acclaimed Hong Kong designer pays tribute to the resplendent Chinoiserie style that flourished during China’s Trans-Eurasia era of trade, marrying both Western and Chinese components in one lavish gastronomic spectacle.
Narratives of ancient China are quite literally woven into the restaurant’s design; the walls of the main dining room, glittering with the light of a cascading crystal chandelier, are adorned with a 35-metre-long custom Suzhou embroidery silk mural that took 108,000 hours to complete. A long, marbled corridor leads the way to four private dining rooms, each thematically decorated in such curatorial fashion, that they resemble compact museum galleries. The Fan Room, for instance, boasts a collection of 18th and 19th century fans from Japan, France and China, recalling the days of ancient aristocracy through a quotidian accessory of exquisite craftsmanship.
Helmed by Chef Ken Chong, Palace Garden offers a profound exploration of traditional Taishi cooking, a branch of Cantonese cuisine that Chef Ken has received professional training in, thanks to many years working alongside its esteemed successors. One might begin this gastronomic journey with a historic Taishi dish and Palace Garden signature, ‘Premium Partridge Bisque’.
Though rather unassuming to the untrained eye, this layered, flavourful soup is a testament to the culinary skills that characterise Chef Ken and his team. “The partridge meat, mushrooms, and bamboo shoots are expertly sliced into thin strips reminiscent of strands of hair,” says Chef Ken. “We add fish maw for more flavour complexity and chrysanthemum petals, just before serving, for a delightful aroma.”
Another standout Palace Garden dish is a favourite of Chef Ken’s, and similar to the partridge bisque, speaks to an unparalleled passion and dedication to his craft. A single tiger shrimp is stripped of its red coating, revealing a succulent body that is marinated and cooked until transparency, lending the dish its name of ‘Crystal King Tiger Prawn’. The shrimp is served with a bright romanesco cauliflower bud, Spanish Iberico ham and a unique blend of housemade oyster sauce and 25-year aged Italian balsamic vinaigrette — a worldly fusion that reflects the essence of Palace Garden.
“We go to great lengths to source and prepare these ingredients meticulously,” shares Chef Ken. “Our commitment to perfect ingredient combinations sets us apart. Over time, you may notice a [distinct] improvement in these culinary creations, as I continuously strive for perfection and refuse to settle for anything less.”
Shop 306, Level 3, Grand Lisboa Palace Macau (South Entrance); grandlisboapalace.com
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Lead image: Courtesy of Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau