Summer is here and I decided to take it easy, because like a lot of you, I’ve been travelling (let me know if you want to read about where to eat in Tokyo and Seoul!). I still managed to visit three venues, one four-hands event, and an old favourite.

 

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Fortunately, I was back in Hong Kong in time to meet David Toutain, owner and chef of the eponymous Michelin two-star restaurant in Paris, who was here for tastings at his new establishment, Feuille. Toutain and the Feuille chef, Joris Rousseau, are using sustainably raised local produce on the vegetable-focused menu (it’s not a vegetarian restaurant, though). The menu is divided into sections of “grains and seeds” (small bites), “leaves, stems and roots” (appetisers and mains), “flowers and fruits” (desserts), and “origins” (the mignardises). That translated into delicious dishes that included refreshing lemon tree kombucha with chia seeds; sweet potato with quinoa and thyme; green peas with clams, almond milk and green almonds; and our only meat course of the evening, a succulent pigeon with beetroot and hibiscus.

I also paid a visit to an old fave, Salisterra. Last year, a new chef, Cary Docherty, came on board. I’d eaten the chef’s food several times at the Lobster Bar at the Island Shangri-La, so my friends and I were eager to celebrate a friend’s birthday with a taste of his Mediterranean-inspired dishes.

We started with a beautifully light ajo blanco – a chilled almond gazpacho, usually made with raw garlic, but here it was replaced by black garlic, which gave it a mild sweetness and made it less pungent. We tried several summery and satisfying vegetarian dishes: starters of roasted broccolini with garlic yogurt, almonds, zaatar and romesco sauce;  stracciatella di bufala with Japanese fruit tomatoes; and a main of green pea risotto with pea shoots. Non-vegetarian dishes included salad Nicoise – made with fresh, seared tuna and confit tuna belly; the hand-sliced Polmard beef tartare; and roasted barramundi with scallop, potatoes, fennel, and preserved lemon beurre blanc.

 

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I caught up  with Chef Vicky Lau at the two-star Tate Dining Room, where Lau – winner of Asia’s 50 Best Female Chef 2015 – and Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij of the one-star Potong, in Bangkok, were cooking for a two-day event. We thoroughly enjoyed dishes of fish maw with scallop mousse, scallions and leeks; homemade egg noodles with morels and oscietre caviar; Greffeuille lamb saddle roulade with glutinous rice and red tofu braised neck of lamb; and a beautiful dessert of chrysanthemum mousse with cocoa nibs, lemon sorbet, vanilla air and flower meringue.
Friends visiting from Singapore invited me to dinner at Auor, the new restaurant by Singaporean chef Edward Voon, formerly of the now-closed Le Pan. I like the food, dining room and whole experience so much better here than I did at Le Pan. My favourite dishes included mud crab au gratin with Sarawak black pepper’ lamb “mala” with cordyceps and madeira; buckwheat noodles with abalone; and a dessert based on yuenyeung – the classic Hong Kong drink of tea mixed with coffee.

 

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After seeing a friend’s Instagram post, I sent out a message to my friends, begging them, “Can we please go back to Moon Bay?” This friend had posted about Moon Bay’s suckling pig – pronouncing it the best in Hong Kong – so we pre-ordered half for the five of us. The skin is carved into neat rectangles of perfect, delicate crispness. Sprinkle it lightly with sugar before enjoying it with the thin piece of steamed bread. The meat – well flavoured and moist – is also fantastic. Lest you think we are wimps – as my original friend said (because his group of six polished off a whole suckling pig), we also feasted on har gau, two types of cheung fun (pan-fried with garlic, and steamed with beef), taro puffs, soup and dessert.

I will be heading to London and Spain for a short trip and look forward to reporting back with some recommendations in the next month!