There’s more to this chaotic neighbourhood than first meets the eye. Beyond the flashing advertisements and immediate, endorphin spikes of stimulation lie twisting streets that hide late-night izakayas, spacious parks and boutique stores. It’s home to mega malls and department stores — Times Square, Hysan Place, Lee Garden and SOGO — with international heavy-hitter brands jostling for space. But for those in the know, there are calm, leafy lanes where locals buy their coffee, design forward concept stores and multi-level bookstores. Causeway Bay is also a gastronomic hub that showcases every kind of cuisine from Michelin-starred British to popular Japanese haunts.
EAT
Roganic
Less than 10 months after opening in Hong Kong last year, Roganic was awarded a Michelin star for its innovative take on British cooking. Helmed by Chef Simon Rogan, who found acclaim with his restaurant of the same name in London, the focus is on fresh, seasonal ingredients and high-quality produce. Much of it is sourced from Rogan’s own farm in the Lake District. Although it’s located in Sino Plaza shopping mall, interiors bring the outdoors in with logs as room separators and branches hanging from the ceiling.
Sino Plaza, UG/F 08, 255 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay; roganic.com.hk
Aulis
Roganic’s sister restaurant comes in the form of an intimate private chef’s table experience. There are just 12 seats in the restaurant, and all diners are seated together from 7.30pm, guided through their tasting menus by a chef, while a sommelier pairs wine to the meal. Aulis turns local vegetables from organic farms in the New Territories and herbs grown in the restaurant itself, into colourful and creative plates.
Sino Plaza, UG/F 08, 255 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay; roganic.com.hk/aulis
Din Tai Fung
Born in 1970s Taiwan, Din Tai Fung has found fame globally for its delicate xiao long bao with their tasty broth fillings. In 1993, The New York Times rated it one of the top ten gourmet restaurants in the world and it has since gone on to achieve a Michelin-star, which it has retained for the past decade. At peak times, it’s hardly a surprise to find long queues at the Causeway Bay branch, but rest assured, the dumplings, folded and steamed in an open plan kitchen, are well worth the wait.
68 Yee Woo Street, Hong Kong; dintaifung.com.hk
Castellana
Tucked inside an unassuming building, this impeccable Italian restaurant is a popular spot for work lunches, given it’s affordable yet elevated menu. To start, warm homemade bread is served with generous glugs of their delicious olive oil, followed by a selection of tasty Piedmont-inspired salads and slow-cooked meats. The carbonara ‘au koque’ is Castellana’s speciality with a creamy egg-based sauce that’s poured over the homemade tagliatelle at the table.
10/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay; castellanahongkong.com
Sushi Yorokobu
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Here chefs work at a sleek U-shaped bar in the centre of the restaurant, using only the freshest fish for their sashimi and sushi rolls. Helmed by chef-founder Tango Lai, Sushi Yorokobu offers traditional Edomae-style omakase, impeccably served on stylish Japanese porcelain with finesse.
18/F, Aura on Pennington, 66 Jardline’s Bazaar, Causeway Bay
Tsuta
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Gone are the days when Hong Kong’s outpost of Tsuta, the world’s first Michelin-starred ramen joint, served only two types of ramen. Now there’s the choice of a shoyu (soy-based), shio (salt-based), miso (fermented soybean paste), tonkotsu (pork broth), or mala (chicken broth), as well as the brand’s signature tonkotsu soba made of premium black pork bones and trotters that are boiled for over five hours, with kelp and shiitake mushroom, and drizzled in a rich, black garlic oil. It’s served with marbled pork or teriyaki chicken and vegetables.
No. 2, G/F, V Point, 18 Tang Lung Street, Causeway Bay; tsuta.com
DRINK
NOC Lee Garden Three
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Super sleek, NOC’s Lee Garden branch enjoys floor to ceiling windows that let the sun shine in from aptly-named Sunning Lane. A little bench outside is where locals sit with their dogs and cold brews, but heartier offerings can be ordered in the minimalist space indoors. There, find a selection of cakes and pastries, plus a healthy menu that subscribes to the brunch zeitgeist with smashed avocado on toast and acai bowls.
No g23, Lee Garden Three, 1 Sunning Road, Causeway Bay; noccoffeeco.com
Elephant Grounds
For good, strong, ethically-sourced brews, head to Elephant Grounds for a caffeine hit. It’s beans are sourced from small farms around the world, and roasted in-house to create signature blends. The original espresso is curated from beans from Papua New Guinea, Colombo, and Brazil. Reflecting a commitment to sustainability, interiors are suitably earthy, with plenty of reclaimed wood adorning the walls, and plants and moss on the ceiling.
Shop C, 42-48 Paterson Street, Fashion Walk, Causeway Bay; elephantgrounds.com
Alto
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Whether you’re planning a date night or retreating from the chaos below, rooftop bar Alto has you covered. Perched on the 31st floor of V Point Tower, it boasts breathtaking views of Hong Kong. Choose a glass from the compact but well-curated wine list and some snacks from the grill-centric menu and settle in. The black truffle fries have our seal of approval.
31/F, V Point, 18 Tang Lung Street, Causeway Bay; alto.com.hk
SHOP
8Five2
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Named after the Hong Kong area code +852, this concept store curates street and skate culture with a collection that includes little-known labels and international brands never-before sold in Hong Kong. At the shop, sign up to their newsletter for events and news about the skateboarding scene.
1/F 522 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay; shop.8five2.com
B’In Select
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Founders Anthony and Doris curate accessories, bags, home décor and lifestyle goods from every corner of the world at their shop B’In Select, short for Believe in Design. International brands include Eone Timepieces and Wewood watches, Clima water bottles and kitchenware imported from Japan. It also serves as a platform for quality local designers.
Kiosk 8&11, 1/F Fashion Walk, 11-19 Great George Street, Causeway Bay; binselect.com.hk
HER
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This terracotta-toned concept store, inspired by planet Mars, is a haven for contemporary streetwear brands. It’s the brainchild of local stylist Hilary Tsui, who has curated a female-driven retail experience that sells everything from sneakers and athleisure to cosmetics and body products. A cafe serves coffee, cookies from the Cookie Department and elaborate iced coffees to browsing customers.
55 Paterson Street, Causeway Bay; instagram.com/_her.official_
Eslite Bookstore
Good bookstores in Hong Kong are few and far between but, by any standards, Taiwanese chain Eslite is mega. It takes over three stories of Hysan Place and sells both Chinese and English books, has a dedicated and diverse magazine section, and a wide selection of stationery and accessories.
8/F-10/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Road Causeway Bay; eslitecorp.com
DO
Shun Kee Typhoon Shelter
Jump on a boat from Causeway Bay pier, near the pedestrian footbridge connected to Victoria Park, for a taste of life on board a sanpan. Shun Kee, the first floating restaurant to return to the typhoon shelter, serves up Cantonese dinner of the freshest seafood, to a group of 12 people or under.
You must book for dinner, and the minimum charge is $800 per boat, which includes the $300 boat rental fee.
Five Elements
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An oasis of calm, Fivelements Habitat Times Square is a 15,000 square foot sanctuary for yoga, sacred arts and plant-based cuisine. The retreat, which was first founded in the luscious green hilltops of Ubud, Bali, brings a range of holistic practices based around the Balinese healing philosophy of Tri Hita Karana.
Level 13A, Tower One, Times Square, 1 Matheson St, Causeway Bay; fivelements.com
Editor
Emma RussellCredit
Lead image: Andrew Aitchison at Getty Images