Home to fishermen since the 14th century, Sai Kung continues to buzz with the sounds of hawkers touting their catch of the day and the sight of fish drying in the sun. It’s a  popular destination for Hongkongers seeking an escape from the chaos of the city with resplendent islands of powdery white sands and turquoise blue waters easily accessible by boat or kayak. Opened in 1978, the Sai Kung East Country Park includes some of the most beautiful beaches and hiking locations in the city, while the Hong Kong UNESCO Global Geopark exhibits world-class, ash-coloured sedimentary rock formations resulting from the volcano that created Hong Kong millions of years ago. The town is a lively mix of cultures, generations and traditions, with a food scene that spans from the long-standing to the modern. On Sai Kung’s ‘Seafood Street,’ huge round tables are drowned in frenzied chatter and flanked by floor-to-ceiling fish tanks, while minimalist cafes, cha chaan tengs and vibrant restaurants can be found inland. 

EAT

Little Cove Espresso

This white-washed minimalist haven, a stone’s throw from the harbour, serves up a seriously delicious brunch with plenty of vegan, gluten-free, dairy-free and sugar-free options. Smoothie bowls are a colourful feast of superfoods, while a board above the coffee bar lists creative Mediterranean-inspired plates that feature ingredients like pumpkin-spiked hummus and homemade labneh on sourdough. Designed by local design agency Studio Adjective, Little Cove Espresso has been styled like the cafes in Melbourne with an expansive outside seating area, terrazzo flooring and trendy wooden seats.

Sai Kung Town Villa Block A, Siu Yat Building Block A, Shop 1+2, G/F, Sai Kung Hoi Pong Square; facebook.com/littlecoveespresso

Chuen Kee Seafood

It’s impossible to miss the classic signage of Chuen Kee — a giant fish with ferocious teeth splashing in the waves — on the way to ‘Seafood Street,’ the colloquial name of Sai Kung’s harbourfront. Once there, take a pew on a plastic chair, and select your dinner from one of the towering tanks at the back of the restaurant — there’s a large selection of fish, lobster, crab, shrimps and molluscs that have all been freshly caught by fisherman earlier in the day, which you can have steamed, poached or wok-fried. 

53 Sai Kung Hoi Pong St, Sai Kung

Padstow

For classic pub grub and views over Pak Sha Wan Bay, this blue-fronted spot behind the Sai Kung Yacht Club is the place to go. Head straight to the roof terrace for a cold drink where there’s a curated list of local craft beers and artisanal gins. It’s best enjoyed with hearty dishes that include a delicious St Mungo battered fish and chips for a taste of the English seaside, bangers and mash, pies, and grilled lobster with a homemade hollandaise sauce. Everything is British or local and sustainably farmed. 

112 Pak Sha Wan, Sai Kung; padstow.hk

May’s Sawaddee Thailand

May has two outlets of her popular Thai restaurant in Sai Kung. One is a yellow-fronted cafe with simple interiors — green walls featuring pictures of the country’s royal family and dancing women – while the other is in an atmospheric alleyway by the pier and it’s open until late. Both dish out unpretentious Thai food – steaming hot soups, curries that pack a punch in terms of spice, and zesty salads that are full of flavour. The Michelin guide has given this spot the Bib Gourmand, denoting a high-quality meal of two courses and a glass of wine for $40 or less. 

24 Man Nin St, Sai Kung; the alley behind 7/11 on Fuk Man Road, Sai Kung

The Conservatory