BonBom Jo is shaking up the status quo. The South Korean designer launched his eponymous label in 2015 to create the “couture of today”: reinterpreting the language of luxury to “suggest a new type of beauty through a unique code and signature style”. He says, “This fashion can inspire other brands and set trends. It stands out from the crowd and isn’t beholden to following trends or a focus on selling commercial, wearable pieces. Instead, it creates show-stopping statement pieces that make a lasting impact.”
Jo’s vision crystallised during his studies at the London College of Fashion, where exposure to diverse cultures and design processes shaped his aesthetic. While many fashion creatives are curbed by the historic industry’s traditions, Jo thinks “limitations and rules that come with designing garments make our design process richer and more rewarding” — the musings of a true pioneer.
Growing up immersed in human anatomy by virtue of his anatomy professor father, Jo sought to create clothing that both influences and is influenced by body shapes, a philosophy deeply imbued in BONBOM’s DNA. He reveals, “I am drawn to people who cannot be defined in one sentence, as they have influenced my own designs and inspired me to create a designer brand that celebrates versatility and individuality.”
“The beauty of BONBOM lies in the fact that there is no specific persona, customer or muse that we design for.” Jo continues, “This is not because we lack inspiration, but rather because we draw inspiration from many different sources and use it to create versatile garments that can fit a variety of body types and personal styles. My design universe is vast and multifaceted, and “versatility” seems like the most fitting word to describe it.”
Jo is a man who knows and loves his pleats. He distinguishes himself as a designer by employing a dramatic pleating technique to reimagine wardrobe classics like blazers, coats and jeans into fashion-forward silhouettes that marry artisanal mastery with contemporary streetwear influences and cultural trends.
“What I find particularly exciting is seeing how our pleats can be successfully blended with norm-core style, which consists of items that people frequently choose for their daily wear,” Jo shares. “The pleating process and the skill involved in creating garments in this way deserve to be called couture, but it’s not just about making evening dresses with tulle. It’s about bringing couture to everyday life, from the office to the gym and beyond.”
BONBOM’s designs live up to Jo’s words. The latest Spring 2024 collection, “I’ll Be Mature”, takes his signature pleats into the boardroom, whereas the previous Fall/Winter 2023 collection “Dream, But Be Careful”, transports it into the rave club scene. Interestingly enough, it turns out that Jo has never been one to party.
“As a teenager, I was a model student who focused on studying and hard work. This same approach carried over into my adult life, where I prioritized work over nightlife.” Instead, Jo was an observer. He recalls, “While living in Paris, two designers I worked with loved to spend their nights in Techno clubs and rave parties. They dressed up after work and embraced their dual personas as employees and ravers. Curious about their experiences, I went to the clubs with them to see what they sought from the activity and how they balanced it with their work and personal lives. I worried about them, and those emotions found their way into the collection, which carried a personal message of dreaming big while also being careful not to ruin oneself.”
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If BONBOM’s pleats look familiar, it is probably because you’ve seen them on global pop sensations Blackpink. Ever since Jo collaborated with the girl group in 2021, his designs have been spotted everywhere, from Blackpink’s music videos to their dance practice recordings. Most recently, during the group’s Born Pink World Tour in Atlanta, Rosé took the stage rocking the Daphne mini skirt from the brand’s Winter 2022 collection.
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So, how does it feel to dress some of the most beloved it-girls in the world? “It was a huge chance and challenge for me,” Jo admits, but his excitement shines through. “Working with them was thrilling because each member has a unique personality and strong image. What they wear can be very powerful, and it’s exciting to see how our garments interact with them when they perform on stage.”
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Blackpink are not the only ones who adore BONBOM’s designs. The brand boasts a star-studded clientele that includes members from the likes of BTS, SNSD, BigBang, Twice, GOT7, Seventeen, Stray Kids, Aespa, and more — K-pop groups who are taking the world by storm at the forefront of the Hallyu wave. While Jo embraces all the opportunities that come with this cultural phenomenon, he remains weary of “grouping” and being generalised due to his brand’s association with K-pop and K-fashion.
“While some applaud the Hallyu situation, others watch with jealousy. To stand out, we need to remain creative and continue to focus on being the best version of ourselves,” the designer states. “To become a high-fashion brand, we need to gain more independence and recognition through establishing a unique and irreplaceable aesthetic.”
In a world where trends change in the blink of an eye, staying true to one’s vision is a test, now more than ever. But if there is one designer that is rising to the challenge, it would be BonBom Jo — one pleat at a time.
Editor
Kaitlyn LaiCredit
Interview courtesy of Lane Crawford and BONBOM
