Drawing on his knitwear expertise from CSM, Lee reinterpreted Bottega’s iconic Intrecciato weave with a fresh sophistication, persevering even when his logoless, minimalist bag designs were initially met with scepticism. The breakout success of Bottega’s Pouch clutch, spotted on the arms of fashion icons like Rihanna and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, was just the beginning, as Lee sought to instil a sense of longevity and sophistication across his creations – from the minimalist Cassette to the architecturally-sculpted Cabat.

The “New Bottega” (dubbed by fans) embodied a refined Italian sensibility and hedonistic, sensual aesthetic distinct from Philo’s Céline, while Lee shared her design philosophy of empowering women to dress for themselves and “not for anyone else”.

By 2019, just 18 months into his tenure, Bottega had become the talk of the fashion world, with Lee hailed as a “quiet radical” by British Vogue and “wonder boy” by Harper’s Bazaar for his alchemical ability to marry tradition and modernity – a transformation reflected in the staggering 83% of the brand’s soaring revenues that came from leather goods as Lee’s Bottega emerged as a key player in the industry’s embrace of stealth-wealth style.

Burberry: Embracing Heritage and Innovation

In 2022, Lee was appointed as the new Chief Creative Officer of the legacy brand Burberry, succeeding Riccardo Tisci. Lee was tasked with the brief of reinvigorating Burberry’s iconic image while infusing it with a contemporary sensibility, as well as developing the brand’s accessories offering. This appointment was seen as a strategic move, as Burberry aims to increase its annual sales from $3.5 billion to $5 billion by the end of the decade, and Lee’s expertise in accessories from his successful tenure at Bottega Veneta is viewed as crucial to achieving this goal. With W Magazine crowning him an “accessories maestro“, Lee faces the expectation to develop Burberry’s accessories business, a challenge as the brand has not previously been known for having an iconic bag.

For his debut Fall 2023 collection, Lee sought to defy the negative tastes of post-Brexit Britain, leaning instead into the positivity of creativity. He has experimented with unique fabric techniques, such as a springy jersey jacquard and a changeant effect achieved by weaving two fibres together, to create a glow and shine in the dresses and outerwear. At the core of Lee’s vision is Burberry’s iconic outerwear, particularly the trench coat, which he has reinterpreted with a slimmer silhouette and a mix of gabardine and duchesse satin.

Beyond the trench, Lee is committed to building out Burberry’s product range, including shoes and bags, to create a cohesive and modern brand identity. He has decided to move away from the brand’s signature check pattern, instead reviving the historic Equestrian Knight Design (EKD) logo and introducing a bold “Knight Blue” colour. Lee believes that colour and emotion are intrinsically linked, and he aims to use them to strike a positive chord with consumers. Additionally, Lee is curating a diverse “family” of models, artists, athletes, and musicians to embody Burberry’s 21st-century British identity, which he sees as modern, eccentric, inclusive, and creatively diverse, drawing from a range of global influences.

Lee’s most recent Burberry Resort 2025 collection beautifully blends the brand’s storied heritage with a modern, intergenerational sensibility. From patchwork unisex peacoats in rich country tweeds to tailored pieces that are both timelessly British and surprisingly lightweight, Lee continues to reinvigorate the iconic brand in exciting ways that have fashion enthusiasts eagerly anticipating what he’ll create next.