Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri has a tradition of framing her Dior shows with an assertive feminist statement. For Autumn/Winter 2020, her message, writ large in neon lighting across the show space, designed by Paris-based feminist collective artist Claire Fontaine, was louder than ever: ‘Consent. Consent. Consent;’ ‘When women strike the world stops;’ and the designated motto-of-the-season, ‘I Say I.’ Maria Grazia Chiuri was “inspired by emblematic figures of Italian feminist art from the 1960s and 1970s” to continue her “questioning of the multiple and immutable links between the body, feminism, and femininity,” stated the show notes.
Chloe
Natacha Ramsay-Levi looked to three female artists for Chloé’s Autumn/Winter 2020 collection, entitled ‘If You Listen Carefully… I’ll Show You How to Dance.’ Before the show, she sent guests an invitation featuring a painting by Hungarian artist Rita Ackermann, whose works of female forms later appeared on a series of garments and accessories. At the show, French artist Marion Verboom’s tall golden totem sculptures lined the runway, and Marianne Faithful’s smoky voice filled the soundtrack with a reading of Lord Byron’s ‘She Walks in Beauty.’ It was a union of painting, sculpture and poetry that invoked “a potent synergy of performative spirits. Yes, clothes are great,” said Ramsay-Levi, “but I love creative women.” The collaborative spirit of women translated to an abundance of wardrobe essentials flourishing with effortless femininity and French girl elan.
Prada
This season, Miuccia Prada presented a collection “about the conflict between femininity and strength” by creating uniforms out of symbols of glamour. She subverted stereotypical feminine fashion — pretty frills, sheer fabrics, and delicate floral prints — by fusing them with structured silhouettes and sober materials. Take, for example, the fringing, which trimmed boxy coats and suits, and formed full skirts that moved with pleats. “This is a way of saying that you can be strong and feminine at the same time,” Prada said. Beyond the decorative elements, Prada asserted the “agency of women” through silhouette – masculine blazers were cinched at the waist to create a more sensual shape, while crystal dresses and pastel sheers were cut with a straight line.
Celine
For Autumn/Winter 2020, Hedi Slimane’s unisex creations were more evident than ever, with the women walking in oversized coats, sharp suits, black jeans, and leather, and both male and female models wearing the same silk and chiffon foulard blouses. Plush velvet maxi skirts and gold-encrusted tunics contribute just the right amount of glamour to a collection dedicated ‘A Ma Mère’ (to Slimane’s mother).
Editor
Alice Riley-Smith & Joanna Fu
