For his first physical show of the year, one year after his sensational show in the middle of a cornfield, Simon Porte Jacquemus relocated from the South to the mountaintops. “I wanted to focus on the clothes, the silhouettes, the colors, the fabrics, the details and the energy of the models,” he said, celebrating the return to an optimistic, lively and sexy fashion that caters to those who wear it – modelled by a strong troupe of models, including Kendall Jenner, Jill Kortleve, Bella Hadid, Adut Akech and Leon Dame. Here’s everything you need to know about the show.
A second skin
After one entire year where the role of fashion has been under question, Jacquemus sends a strong message: that clothing is above all a way of celebrating bodies and identities, in all their diversity. Trousers seemed to be sewn directly onto the body, the dresses hugged the models’ figures perfectly, the open shirts were as if laid on bare skin: it’s a wardrobe which serves of dynamic bodies in motion.
The crop top
The piece that embodies the liberation of bodies par excellence, to the point that it has been the subject of national debate. The crop top is omnipresent in this collection in many different forms: asymmetrical, microscopic, knitted or layered, worn by women and men alike, it is more than ever a symbol of emancipatory fashion.
Sexyness
The designer takes it to extremes, with micro bras that expose the chest, shortened jackets, tight-fitting cycling shorts or mini-cardigans that hang by a mere thread. Winter or summer, it doesn’t seem to matter anymore, fashion is gradually freeing itself from seasonal codes.
Pink
It’s flashy, bright and acidic, seen on skirts as well as fleeces and micro-shirts. Set against sober tones and pastel colours, pink injects this technical wardrobe with pop accents.
Adjustable clothing
Jacquemus has designed an adaptable wardrobe, that can be transformed at will, adapted to one’s moods or to the weather: jackets with removable pockets, trousers that become shorts and a top that can be opened to shorten it. It’s a unique mixture of technique and sophistication that everyone can interpret as they wish.
Technical clothing
Here the mountain wardrobe is reinvented to mix utility with style: fluorescent harnesses, strapped tops, flashy fleeces, technical materials and fleecy skirts transform sportswear into ultra-sophisticated fashion pieces.
Editor
Claire Beghin Translated by Isabella MartinCredit
Lead image: courtesy of Go/Runway
