Hailing from Madrid, Spain, designer and artist Paula Ulargui Escalona showcases an unwavering commitment to sustainable materials, which extends to crafting her own fabrics. In her creations, she infuses organically grown plants into fabrics, offering an innovative and ecological outlook on fashion and nature. As she describes, “They leave no (ecological) impact.” Paula’s pioneering approach epitomises a distinctive experiment, akin to an art form, aimed at reigniting humanity’s responsibility to nature, through materials.
Within every flower, plant, and tree resides the essence of life. Nature’s innate simplicity and purity encapsulate the very core of our humanity. The responsibility to reconnect with life and the natural world is not solely a challenge faced by the fashion industry–it extends to every designer and creator. Taking on this challenge is the gateway to exploring sustainable fashion.
“I did this because since I was little, I have always attended very alternative schools. They follow different education systems and they were all very focused on the values of taking care of the earth. However, it’s not just about caring for the Earth, but also embracing the common sense values of being respectful and mindful towards both nature and people.” Paula says. “This is something that I learned since I was very little, even though I believe it’s something that we shouldn’t have to learn. It should be inside us and natural. But it is true that during those years at school when I decided to study fashion, I always had this personal conflict of whether it was the right career for me or not because it’s a very polluting industry. So it was very hard for me to be part of it. Discovering the world of sustainable fashion and how I could be part of the change and this big shift in the fashion world was a big moment. It was obvious that the industry needed a change and I kind of fell in love with the fashion world. Then, I started to focus all my projects on raising awareness and promoting this cause.”This belief drives Paula on her sustainable journey of studying the art of textiles.
With its expansive ecosystem, the fashion industry has always had an immense impact on the world. In an era where climate change awareness and environmental concerns lack urgency, it’s crucial to reassess current design principles and consumption habits. Paula’s collaborations with global brands, artists, and textile laboratories have positioned her as a driving force behind this shift. “Despite being surrounded by art and trends, in the end, we are an industry that revolves around fashion and our primary focus lies in providing clothes for people to purchase. Influencing individuals to align with your values and the direction you believe is right can be incredibly complex,” she admits. Paula believes that the greatest challenge facing the fashion industry is communicating the significance of change to both brands and consumers. It is crucial for all parties involved to recognise their shared responsibility in driving meaningful transformation.
As for Paula, what serves as the starting point for her exploration of sustainable practice? “My sustainable practice isn’t fixed; it’s not confined to one specific approach. Rather, I dedicate my work to exploring avenues for raising awareness and advocating reconnecting with nature, stressing the importance of a deep-rooted commitment to the planet and seeing that reflected in our daily actions. Through investigations such as cultivating plants for fabrics and developing low-impact materials, my goal is always to highlight the imperative of reconnecting with nature and fostering greater respect for our environment. Nature’s beauty knows no bounds and it encompasses a rich tapestry of vibrant colours and intricate forms. Yet, what truly matters are its simple gifts: food and health. Nature provides everything essential for life and strips away the excess noise of human society. This realisation inspired me and made me realise how often we undervalue nature’s simplicity, despite its ability to fulfil all our needs.”
The initial step towards establishing a physical and direct reconnection with nature begins with Paula’s research into innovative, alternative, and sustainable fabrics. “At the outset, all designs are primarily focused on the necessity of developing specific techniques and technology. When I started planting plants on fabrics, I needed to follow certain specifications, such as those concerning the fabric and patterns, specifically crafting designs based on the needs of the plants and how they grow. However, I continued to gradually refine my techniques to allow me to apply plant cultivation techniques to a wider variety of fabrics. This provided me with greater freedom in creating and designing the garments.”
As a designer, Paula not only realises the impact of her creations but also questions whether the practices inherent in the system she follows are useful, meaningful, or capable of bringing about change. She emphasises the types of materials she uses, one of which she manufactures herself. You can make them at home with the right ingredients. Simply mix them in a big pot until they melt together, then pour the material onto a special surface. Once stripped off, it forms a natural fabric that you can cut, shape, and design into any pattern you desire. I’ve always used fully biodegradable, organic, and natural materials with zero impact.” She explains, “The primary aim of integrating nature into fabrics is to foster a sense of connection for those who wear these garments. I aimed to establish a tangible link between nature and humans, emphasising understanding and connection. The most straightforward approach was to infuse nature directly into the garments, allowing wearers to physically experience the roots and essence of nature through the fabrics.”
With imagination and a spirit of experimentation, any material can spark creativity. As innovative and sustainable materials continue to emerge, how do they integrate into the world of fashion? “Every garment is designed for specific industries and with their daily needs in mind, embodying more of a concept behind the design works and the messages they convey. This is all connected to the information that is expressed to the audience, allowing everyone who sees them to understand their significance.” Paula shares. “I create to raise awareness about the crucial need for a profound reconnection—back to nature, understanding the essentials of our daily lives, and nurturing them. This is essential for us to thrive socially and maintain equilibrium on our planet.”
Paula collaborates with nature, crafting pieces that embody life, beauty, balance, and evolution, even if only for a moment. Fueled by a passion for sustainability, she seamlessly merges artistic creativity with scientific exploration to pave the way for a greener future.“This feels like my life’s path. It’s my ultimate goal. I want to be part of the movement that is transforming the industry I love the most.”
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Translated by Hala Kassem
Editor
Fung Hiu KwanCredit
Photo courtesy of Paula Ulargui Escalona