Over the past few years, hats have been making a gradual return to mainstream fashion. Perhaps this phenomenon is only natural for a new generation of young fashionistas willing to be just as experimental with their everyday wardrobes, as their favourite artists are with their performance attire, or celebrities with their red-carpet ensembles. For Phoebe Leung, founder and designer of Atelier Phyl, hats are not just an instrument for adding more “romance” to one’s sartorial life; for her, millinery has completely renewed her outlook on life itself.
Tucked away in Sau Wa Fong, Wan Chai, Atelier Phyl is surrounded by lush greenery and the calm of nature — it’s what’s been keeping Phoebe’s creativity alive since the store’s opening over three years ago. “It feels a bit like Taipei’s East Side with all the small shops nearby; the whole vibe is fairly nice,” Phoebe says. “Before I opened Atelier Phyl, I did not have any particular goals I wanted to pursue and I was happy to just go with the flow. I studied womenswear design in London, where I had the chance to work with Jaycow and Stephen Jones, two very celebrated milliners of our time. So when I returned to Hong Kong, I had the urge to open up my own shop — and now we’re here.” Since then, Atelier Phyl has been a one-man band; Phoebe takes care of everything from taking orders to running the store and closing up shop. “I have to thank my mentors, especially Stephen, for teaching me responsibility and how to deliver my promises to my customers. The customers are the ones who have faith in your craft, and you can’t just let those people down.”
Having run the store for over three years, Phoebe has learned to be a one-man band.
Photo: Eugene Chan
Phoebe has worked with brands such as Dior, Thom Browne, and Marc Jacobs, and has truly made a name for herself designing hats for the likes of Karen Mok, David Weiland, Lam Ka Him and Serrini. “The celebrity effect certainly helps in making my designs more recognizable, but I put immense care into making sure each hat I create is uniquely special to its wearer. I want people to feel a sense of romance when wearing my designs; I want them to feel beautiful and confident.”
Having developed a penchant for Victorian style since she was a child, Phoebe’s designs somewhat carry a vintage flair of their own. “The hat is an interesting garment; it needs 360-degrees of creative consideration so that one can wear it from different angles. It’s as if you’re building a home on top of a customer’s head— you consider their personality, their ideas, their preferences. It’s tailor-made to feel comfortable and familiar.”
When asked about the hat-wearing culture in Hong Kong, she recognizes that people have become more receptive in recent years. “When Japanese culture was on the rise, handmade hats were popular among the fashionistas. Now that people are more open-minded when it comes to fashion, many are beginning to see hats as a finishing touch to any outfit. Just picture adding a boater hat, or a tall hat with a trailing veil— you look instantly more stylish,” says Phoebe. “When you look at someone, you’re bound to notice a person’s head and facial features first. So a hat with personality is the easiest way to create a strong first impression.”
Hat-making requires 360-degrees of creative consideration.
Photo: Eugene Chan
Upon closer inspection, it appears that the hats displayed in the shop are mostly feminine in design. Phoebe explains, with a hint of amusement, that the male customers seem to know what they’re looking for better than the women do. “Many Hong Kong guys enjoy looking their best and know exactly what kinds of hats they like. On the other hand, girls take a little more time to figure out which designs best suit their face shape and overall aura. That’s been my observation ever since I opened the store, haha!”
As a milliner, Phoebe hopes that the public continues to appreciate the various charms of the hat. “I was really saddened by the passing of Queen Elizabeth. She played a significant role in promoting hat culture; without her there may not be as many people across the globe who still take an interest in hats,” she says. “But I hope that through my own small efforts, more people can come to understand the aesthetics of the hat and the importance of preserving its culture.”
Translated by Alyanna Raissa J. Payos
Editor
Simon AuCredit
Lead image: Eugene Chan for Vogue Hong Kong November 2022 Issue
