New York

Palomo Spain

Palomo
Palomo Spain Spring 2024 collection at NYFW
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Palomo Spain Spring 2024 collection at NYFW

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Palomo’s Spring 2024 collection, “Cruising in the Rose Garden” celebrated the endless possibilities of menswear and the fluid nature of gender. Corsets, micro shorts and man-bras were amongst the repertoire of items that were sent down the runway of The Plaza hotel. A focus of Palomo’s this season was on the duality of human nature and the push and pull that makes way for a balance – he describes one side of him to be an “idyllic” hopeless romantic whilst the other he labelled as “cruisy” and dark. Models were instructed to make eye contact with the crowd, exercising the intricate subtleties of love that pass between two people. 

Kim Shui

Kim
Kim Shui Spring 2024 Collection for NYFW
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Kim Shui Spring 2024 Collection for NYFW

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

It-girl favourite Kim Shui has been worn by the likes of Blackpink, Sza, Devon Lee Carlson and Dua Lipa. This season, Shui marries the cultures of Italy, where she grew up, together with China, as a nod to her Chinese heritage. The designer incorporated the use of mud silk, a Chinese sacred fabric, in this collection’s qipaos with sultry cutouts at the chest, creating a modern spin on the traditional dress. Lace details and sumptuous colour combinations emulated an edge of sophistication whilst tiny bralettes and thigh-high cutouts maintained the label’s cool girl element. 

Ashlyn So

Ashlyn
Photo: @ashylnso_ via Instagram

Photo: @ashylnso_ via Instagram

15 year-old Ashlyn So combines fashion and activism, advocating for the de-stigmatisation of mental health within the Asian community. The young designer showcased a captivating collection this fashion week full of stunningly intentional silhouettes crafted from organza and reflective fabric. Off the runway, Ashlyn actively speaks out against racism, with a particular emphasis on combatting discrimination against Asian-Americans, even taking the initiative to organise her own rallies. 

London

Supriya Lele

Dua
Dua Lipa wears Supriya Lele sari dress
Photo: @dualipa via Instagram

Dua Lipa wears Supriya Lele sari dress

Photo: @dualipa via Instagram

Supriya Lele is undeniably an emerging force in fashion. The British-Indian designer seamlessly blends elements from her dual heritage identity, drawing inspiration from both noughties club culture, in the form of boob tubes and miniskirts as well as traditional Indian attire such as saris. The result is a perfect fusion which makes up the wardrobe of a modern day cool girl, such as the orange sari dress Dua Lipa slipped on for her 25th birthday or the 90’s inspired black leather coat that Bella Hadid flaunted in the streets of Paris. 

Susan Fang

Susan
Susan Fang Autumn/Winter 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Susan Fang Autumn/Winter 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Dubbed as one of China’s most promising emerging designers, Susan Fang’s approach to design is one of a whimsical Wonderland-esque nature. A lover of tulle, ribbons, feathers and all things hyper-feminine, Fang comments on the purpose of her designs not needing to be an exact reflection of one’s internal values. She shares that wearing soft clothes does not necessarily mean we are soft inside. 

Ancuta Sarca

Photo: @ancutasarca via Instagram

Photo: @ancutasarca via Instagram

Bella Hadid wears Ancuta Sarca Nike trainer boots
Photo: @ancutasarca via Instagram

Bella Hadid wears Ancuta Sarca Nike trainer boots

Photo: @ancutasarca via Instagram

Seen on the Kardashians, Rihanna and Bella Hadid, shoewear brand Ancuta Sarca has been stepping it up recently. Born in Romania and now based in London, Sarca’s trademark “trainer heel” has become an ubiquitous presence. As an upcycling brand, the rising designer combines pre-loved trainers and vintage heels to create each unique pair, offering an element of newness in the shoe game. 

Milan

Karoline Vitto

Karoline
Photo: @karolinevitto via Instagram

Photo: @karolinevitto via Instagram

Karoline Vitto will debut her first fashion show at this Milan Fashion Week, backed by Dolce & Gabbana. The Brazilian born, London-based designer creates garments for women between UK sizes 8-28, celebrating the natural curves of the female body. Having grown up in Eurocentric Brazil, the beauty standards of a woman’s body were very stringent. In her designs, Vitto advocates for showing everything a woman was taught to hide, having particular cutouts in garments such as at the hips to highlight the natural folds and soft textures of the body. 

Shuting Qiu

Shuting
Shuting Qiu Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear collection
Photo: Courtesy of Shuting Qiu

Shuting Qiu Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear collection

Photo: Courtesy of Shuting Qiu

Hailing from Hangzhou, Shuting Qiu boasts an impressive international background. With previous showcases in New York and Milan and now based in Shanghai, Qiu has had quite the worldly resumé. Having started as an artist before transitioning into a designer, Qiu’s artistic roots shine  in her remarkable ability to translate brush strokes between the mediums of canvas and fabric. Never straying away from her origins in the fine arts, the designer often pays homage to painters such as Bernard Frize for her last Spring collection in 2023 where she showcased her conscientiousness in uniting a variety of patterns and colourations. 

Avavav

AVAVAV
AVAVAV Autumn 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Photo: Federico Pompei, @petroli0 / Courtesy of AVAVAV

AVAVAV Autumn 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Photo: Federico Pompei, @petroli0 / Courtesy of AVAVAV

AVAVAV
AVAVAV Autumn 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Photo: Federico Pompei, @petroli0 / Courtesy of AVAVAV

AVAVAV Autumn 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Photo: Federico Pompei, @petroli0 / Courtesy of AVAVAV

If you’re looking for avant-garde, quirky fashion moments, AVAVAV is right up your alley. For her Autumn 2023 show, Swedish designer Beate Karlsson focused on creating a theatrical runway experience. She instructed her models to intentionally fall as heels of shoes broke off and bags fell to pieces on the catwalk. The theme of the collection was “Fake It Till You Break It” and it aimed to shed light on what luxury fashion truly entails, going viral on several social media platforms for its thought-provoking commentary. 

Paris

RUI

RUI
Photo: @ruiofficial.me via Instagram

Photo: @ruiofficial.me via Instagram

Jennie wears RUI mesh top with red ribbons
Photo: @jennierubyjane via Instagram

Jennie wears RUI mesh top with red ribbons

Photo: @jennierubyjane via Instagram

New York-based Chinese designer Rui Zhou pushes the boundaries of traditional silhouettes by redefining the way garments interact with the body. Her creations transcend the typical bodysuit or tank top which we are so familiar with. Being versatile in their use, her garments can be worn as part of an everyday ensemble, or in the case of Jennie from BLACKPINK, as a concert outfit on the Born Pink stage. Zhou’s design philosophy revolves around manipulating fabrics, in the form of circular cutout motifs which play with the negative space between the skin and fabric. Her innovative approach to design is also present in her use of the body as a frame, stripping away connotations of clothing to a particular gender.

Duran Lantink

Duran
Duran Lantink Autumn 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Photo: Abel Minnee / Courtesy of Duran Lantink

Duran Lantink Autumn 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Photo: Abel Minnee / Courtesy of Duran Lantink

Visionary Dutch designer Duran Lantink’s approach to fashion is one of deconstruction. He takes apart luxury fashion garments in order to completely transform them into new creations. From an early age, Lantink experimented at home with his family’s clothes, once combining his grandma’s skirt, a tablecloth and his father’s Diesel jeans together for a piece he created at the age of 15. He has caught the attention of countless celebs such as Billie Eilish who wore his custom designs for Dazed Magazine’s Spring/Summer 2020 edition. 

Didu

DIDU
DIDU Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear Collection for VFiles
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

DIDU Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear Collection for VFiles

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Di Du’s namesake label is a remarkable fusion of her Chinese heritage and her Belgian education at the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Art. With a keen focus on shapes, cuts, techniques and the use of sustainable fabrics, DIDU embodies hyper-femininity, subversion and futurism for women. By seamlessly integrating Eastern and Western cultures, she aspires to foster a sense of self-love and self-acceptance, empowering women to be comfortable in their own skin.