At the beginning of 2023, Robert Wun made history as the first Hong Kong designer to grace the Haute Couture stage, earning a guest membership with the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) in Paris. His remarkable creations quickly garnered attention, making him a hot topic in the fashion world. He was invited by Fashion Asia Hong Kong to participate in their “Fashion Challenges Forum” and joined the “10 Asian Designers to Watch” fashion exhibition – marking a long-awaited “Homecoming” after a five-year hiatus. In an exclusive interview with Vogue Hong Kong, the globally acclaimed designer reflects on his journey in the realm of fashion, sharing insights into the milestones and future directions of his eponymous brand.
“It feels like a full circle moment,” expressed Robert Wun when discussing his return to Hong Kong. Recalling his last visit five years ago, he says, “It was just before the outbreak of the pandemic, and at that time, the brand was gradually gaining recognition and establishing a presence. However, my vision for the brand’s development was still uncertain, and I was purely running on my passion for the craft.” Fast forward five years, and the brand has undergone significant transformations. It has propelled itself towards global recognition, delving into the world of Haute Couture and dressing numerous iconic celebrities, allowing Wun to firmly etch his name onto the world tapestry as “Hong Kong designer Robert Wun.”
Robert Wun’s journey in fashion is a perfect example of coming full circle. The designer has pointed out that the process of becoming a fashion designer and establishing his eponymous brand mirrors each other. Both journeys found their roots in the intimate confines of his room. Before receiving a formal fashion education, Wun had already been dipping his toes in the craft. He recalls those early days and reminisces lingering around the fabric shops of Tai Nan Street in Sham Shui Po or buying second-hand clothes to DIY in his room. He also experimented with his grandmother’s old clothes, lending creative twists to the fabric. “It was a process of self-discovery, and it marked my earliest memories with fashion.” Later, Wun pursued his studies in womenswear at the London College of Fashion. Following graduation, Wun worked for various brands and learned the ropes of brand building. Simultaneously, he began establishing his namesake label, launching his inaugural collection from his room in South London.
“Imaginative, expressive, and personal” – these are the words Wun uses to describe his creative journey. On the brand’s inaugural Haute Couture collection, he states, “This collection shares many parallels with the brand’s first-ever series”, aiming to rekindle the flame that started his journey. The theme of Robert Wun’s first Haute Couture collection revolved around “Fear.” Faced with unprecedented pressure and navigating uncharted waters, Wun was thrust into the forefront of the Couture calendar to orchestrate a grand spectacle with a mere two-month notice. Faced with a variety of firsts, Wun transformed what could have been a fashion nightmare into a dream, showcasing his resilience and resourcefulness. His debut unveiled looks inspired by shattered pearl necklaces, wine-splattered gowns, and bridal dresses marked with traces of fire. Wun shares, “I didn’t have time to adopt a calculative procedure; I had to follow my intuition a lot.” It’s Wun’s dedication to craftsmanship that infuses strength and power into his designs and creative vision.
Wun empathetically acknowledges the challenges faced by emerging designers in the constant self-comparison trend that pervades their journey. “For anyone aspiring to build their brand or step into the shoes of a fashion designer, it’s crucial to delve into different facets of your identity, distinct from your role as a fashion designer,” Wun emphasises. To him, this is the key to breaking free from the vortex of self-comparison. He continues, “Those who achieve success in the fashion world are the ones who understand their identity beyond fashion.” He urges aspiring designers to avoid drawing parallels with their peers; to “avoid the pitfall of comparison and instead, embark on a journey fueled by passion. It’s the path to discovering your authentic self and your compass in guiding you to craft uniquely personal designs.” In a world saturated with trends and benchmarks, Wun’s advice stands as a beacon of individuality and resilience.
In his whirlwind ascent to Haute Couture acclaim, Wun’s trajectory was swift and, in his words, “unanticipated” (it all happened in two months, after all). This leap marked a transformative turning point that has allowed the brand to build its presence in the world of Haute Couture. Wun, aware of the current market landscape and strategic quarterly releases, views these as ideal elements seamlessly aligning with the brand’s trajectory. According to him, they not only lay the foundation for a solid infrastructure but also harmonise with the current cadence of the brand. “Step by step,” Wun envisions, “the brand’s narrative will unfold into its full vision — a journey that requires time for evolution.” Looking beyond the realms of Haute Couture, Wun discloses his anticipation for forthcoming ventures. A bridal collection and a ready-to-wear capsule series are in the making, as is the prospect of crafting an accessory line. Keeping his audience on their toes, he hints at a fragrance series set to launch by the year’s end. “Stay tuned,” he playfully teases, leaving us eagerly anticipating the next chapters in the brand’s evolution.
Translated by Hala Kassem
Editor
Kyle TangCredit
Lead Photo: Vogue Hong Kong