“I assumed people thought it was costume,” creative director Tomo Koizumi says of his joyfully exuberant creations. “I didn’t feel my designs were high-fashion enough until I had my first show in New York [in 2019].” Since then, he’s proven to be a force in his own right, building a star-studded following that includes Lady Gaga, Katy Perry and American-Japanese actor Kiko Mizuhara.
Opting to present his collections only once a year, the 33-year-old designer operates on his own accord without following the season-specific calendar, much like the late Azzedine Alaïa. This year, he’s taking the fashion pack to the Japanese city of Kyoto, where he’ll be showcasing the new collection via a live runway show at the historically significant Nijō Castle. “Since we can’t travel overseas, I thought it would be fun for everyone to go sightseeing in Kyoto,” Koizumi tells Vogue. “There’s also an ancient kimono culture there that I wanted to pay tribute to as well.”
And the clothes? Expect his signature effervescent and voluminous designs, but let’s also say he’s taken a slightly alternative approach this time. “I wanted to challenge myself and make it more conceptual,” he says. “I still want to make people smile and feel joy, but this is a little different.”
Ahead of his live runway show in Kyoto on 13 July, Vogue talks to Koizumi to discover his latest inspirations, where his love of organza began and what’s on his playlist this season.
Hi Tomo! What’s your earliest memory of fashion?
“When I was 14, I saw the works of John Galliano at Christian Dior for the first time in a magazine. I was so shocked at how incredible it was. I knew, then, that I wanted to make beautiful clothes.”
You’ve got quite the sweet tooth when it comes to colours and silhouettes. What originally inspired you?
“I loved to watch the Sailor Moon manga TV series when I was a kid. When it comes to making clothes, they’re my kind of girls: super cute, but strong and independent, too. Later on, when I started my career, I was a costume designer for performers. I needed to catch people’s attention, so that’s why I started making colourful and joyful designs.”
Organza creations have become your signature, tell us why you love the material so much.
“It’s a common fabric in Japan that can be bought in any craft store. I love it because it comes in more than 190 bright colours and it’s really easy to handle. It’s the best material for making dramatic shapes because of how stiff it is. And it’s not expensive.”
Let’s talk about the new collection. What will you be showcasing?
“This time, I only used white organza and then airbrushed the colour on with paint, so it’s different from what I usually do. It’s also more conceptual because there’s some Buddhist symbolism, including holy and lucky animals from traditional Japanese culture, that I’ve embroidered onto the dresses.
“The company that I buy my organza from has invented a new 100 per cent recycled version made from plastic bottles. I also used deadstock silk kimono-fabric from a factory in Kyoto.”
What’s the reason behind showing in Kyoto? And it’s in a castle, how exciting!
“In Japan, shows are always in Tokyo which is a bit boring. It’s fun to go and explore somewhere different, plus, it’s good for the local economy. Nijō Castle is a national treasure that’s very important to Japan. It’s an honour to be able to show there.”
We’ve loved the incredible capsule collections you’ve done in the past year with Emilio Pucci and Sacai. Tell us about these experiences.
“When collaborating, I look for a creative synergy that’s free and easy. Working with Emilio Pucci and Sacai was incredible because I’ve loved and respected them for a long time and it felt natural. I never really had many commercial items to sell so working with these brands was great for production, too.”
You’ve dressed modern-day icons including Katy Perry and Lady Gaga –– who have you enjoyed seeing wear your creations of late?
“I’m so proud to see [Crazy Rich Asians star] Awkwafina wearing my clothes, she is one of the best Asian actors in Hollywood right now.”
What’s your soundtrack to the new season?
“I listen to Japanese pop a lot these days because of my boyfriend, but I’ve also been playing Kim Petras and SZA. Plus, a little bit of minimal techno, depending on the vibes.”
Outside of the atelier, what have you been doing to unwind?
“I’ve actually been doing things I haven’t done for years, like going to the beach! Also, my boyfriend and I started cooking quite a lot. I make Italian and French, and he’s really good at traditional Japanese.”
If you could go back in time, what advice would you give yourself when starting out?
“Don’t trust a stranger too easily. And try to enjoy yourself. Good things happen!”
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Lead image: Tim Walker
