Fashion 5 Jul 2024

How Vintage Coach Bags Became Gen-Z’s Must-Have Accessory Of 2024

Gen Z it-girls breathe fresh, youthful energy into beloved vintage Coach styles

by Emily Chan

It’s official: vintage Coach bags have become Gen-Z’s must-have accessory. Just look to the likes of Olivia Rodrigo and Dove Cameron, who have both been spotted carrying archival pieces from the US brand in recent months. Meanwhile, over on TikTok, collectors and restoration experts, such as @WildernessStyler, @VintageCoachRestore and @VintageCoachie, have racked up hundreds of thousands of views.

“It’s amazing that TikTok is bringing Coach to newer audiences,” Annie Silkaitis, a New York-based PR executive who regularly shares her vintage Coach finds on TikTok, tells Vogue. “My very first bag was a vintage Coach cross-body that was passed down by my mom when I was in middle school. In college, I was thrifting and found a vintage Coach Ergo for $19 (£15) – I immediately knew I had to have it.”

If you needed any further evidence of just how sought-after vintage Coach bags are right now, eBay has seen searches increase by a staggering 114 per cent since January. While the viral bag hauls on TikTok are undoubtedly a major factor, experts say the brand’s marketing strategy has played a part (Coach launched a new upcycled line, Coachtopia, aimed at Gen-Z in 2023). “It’s been great to see Coach’s renaissance this year as they continue to target Gen-Z shoppers,” Mari Corella, eBay’s general manager for global luxury & sneakers, says.

Popular styles include the ’90s Ergo shoulder bag, which Rodrigo was spotted carrying in the spring, and the monogrammed Soho bag, featuring a statement buckle. Other favourites? The Willis and Tribeca satchels, along with Bonnie Cashin’s designs from the ’60s and ’70s. “Cashin is the genius behind Coach’s iconic turn-lock closure, and many of her designs feature kiss-lock pockets, industrial hardware and playful colours,” Rachel Noar, who runs the @VintageCoachie account on TikTok and Instagram, explains. “It’s inspiring to see so many of the earliest bags still holding up, still being carried, and continually providing inspiration for Coach’s modern designs.”

Coach is capitalising on the interest in its vintage styles via its (Re)Loved programme, which launched in 2021 and allows customers to trade in, repair or upcycle their bags, as well as offering a selection of pre-loved bags to buy in store. “We knew our customers were looking for ways to shop more sustainably and also, they shared with us their love of vintage Coach bags,” Joon Silverstein, Coach senior vice-president of global marketing, creative and sustainability, and head of Coachtopia, says. “I would say that this appetite has only grown in the three years since we launched the programme.”

Along with the affordable price tags that vintage Coach bags come with, the quality of these OG pieces are also a big part of the appeal. “When Coach’s glove-tanned leather bags were introduced in the ’70s, they really emphasised the durability and longevity of their leather,” Noar comments. “I think those qualities speak to the younger generation especially, who see the problematic nature of fast fashion. These bags were built to endure a lifetime, and then some.”

Want in? Scroll down for Vogue’s edit of the best vintage Coach bags to shop now.