There’s big cat energy
The starting point for this collection was actually Vivienne Westwood’s Gold Label winter 2001 collection, entitled Wild Beauty – with the tiger print re-appearing this season to mark the year of the tiger in the Chinese zodiac. It isn’t the only big cat referenced: leopard spots and a panther-inspired cutting technique also feature.
Westwood gives us an art history lesson
The art world has long been a source of inspiration for Westwood, with her 1990 Portrait collection (featuring those Boucher corsets) being a prime example. This season, the designer incorporated Pieter Bruegel’s 1559 painting ‘The Fight Between Carnival and Lent’ – which reflects “the human condition, teeming with life” – onto a quilted coat, bag and shoes. “The painting itself is cut up and re-pieced together, so it has that [M.C] Escher [take on] Hieronymus Bosch feeling to it”, a senior designer at Vivienne Westwood explains.
Her ’70s F*CK slogan makes a comeback
Referencing her punk-era T-shirts designed with Malcom McLaren, “F*CK” is emblazoned on a corset in Westwood’s famous chicken bone motif. Elsewhere, the brand’s signature logomania print also makes an appearance on knitwear, denim and suiting.
The power shoulders are sports-inspired
Strong shoulders are officially back, as evidenced by Westwood’s structured trenches and jackets that have been given a sporty twist. “It’s taken from American football uniforms – massive broad shoulders and then a tailored waist”, the senior designer explains.
The brand is reimagining waste
Sustainability has long been a core value for Westwood, with 71 per cent of the autumn/winter 2022 collection made from low-impact and cruelty-free materials. Making use of deadstock from previous seasons is also a major focus for the brand. “We have this reimagining waste concept this season, but also going forward, where we’re using fabrics from old seasons and reinterpreting them – making them feel new”, the senior designer adds.
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Emily ChanCredit
Lead image: courtesy of Vivienne Westwood
