Daniel Lee was inspired by dance for his Bottega Veneta Autumn/Winter 2020 collection, capturing the idea of movement with a series of fluid, fringed and colour-centric designs that created a point of demarcation in the designer’s “New Bottega” legacy.

This season’s runway was set amidst a series of white boxes, on which projected images of a classical Roman sculpture garden illuminated the Italian house’s heritage in a modern light. The show opened with a sequence of lean unisex silhouettes in a sharp colour palette of black, chocolate brown and electric neon green, transitioning from Kaia Gerber’s slim black suit with a green collar to a burst of fringe via Adut Akech’s halter-neck knit dress.

The cool hardiness of Lee’s past seasons was softened for a quiet luxury built on more restrained shapes and wearable fabrics. “When you look at the brand’s beginnings, everything it made was so soft. I find that super inspiring,” the designer said about his collection. “So we developed all of our classic, iconic fabrics with stretch this season, so that it felt like something like a coat or structured tailoring could also occupy that space between the super formal and something more casual. It’s about things that make you feel very elegant but also more comfortable.”