An unbridled sense of freedom was abound at Virginie Viard’s Chanel Autumn/Winter 2020 show, presented on a winding, mirrored runway made to look like the River Seine. The collection featured an almost entirely black and white palette with hints of pistachio green and coral pink. All 72 looks were worn with seven-league boots in black leather with a generous brown flaps, inspired by a pair Lagerfeld owned. “A very simple, very pure momentum,” Viard said. “Romanticism but without any flourishes. Emotions but without any frills,” Viard said referring to the collection. She added to the swashbuckling element with mutton sleeves, ruffled white pirate shirts, and wide-legged trousers that were snap-buttoned down at the sides, inspired by jodhpurs.

Easy tweed separates, suits, and LBDs were garnished with chunky, colourful jewellery that draped around the neck, cinched waist or wrist. The same jewel motif appeared as an intarsia knit sweater that nodded to the crystal-decked sweater that famously defined Anna Wintour’s first American Vogue cover in November 1988.