Once upon a time, between the mist-shrouded hills of Hangzhou, there lay a lake so serene it seemed to hold the dreams of all who gazed upon it. Xihu, or West Lake, as it was called, was a place where willows bent toward rippling waters, pagodas stood like sentinels of time, and boats drifted lazily under skies that glowed softly with twilight. It was a landscape rich with stories, a vision of beauty that inspired countless poets, artists and dreamers — even one who had never set foot there: Gabrielle Chanel. Her apartment at 31 rue Cambon was once adorned with Coromandel screens dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries. One such screen, so beautiful that Chanel placed it on the walls of her study, depicts scenes of everyday life near Hangzhou’s West Lake. 

On December 3, 2024, Chanel’s 2024/25 Métiers d’Art show whisked an audience of more than four hundred away to this dreamscape, conjuring an ethereal journey that seemed to blur the boundaries of time — an homage to Gabrielle Chanel, as if we were embarking on it in her stead, mapping the footsteps she would’ve taken if she were still here. 

The experience began with an otherworldly voyage across West Lake. We boarded wooden boats adorned with ornate glass windows and glided across the water through a mystical fog that blurred the horizon, the orange sun slowly setting behind a pagoda in the distance. On the opposite shore, past the swaying willows, a lone pianist sat on a circular stage in the middle of the waters. The melody of this one Chopin waltz lingered in the air, guiding the guests along a winding wooden walkway toward a sleek black half-shell structure.

Inside, the venue was intimate, minimalist, yet dramatic, with six semicircular rows of seats facing the water. The mist lingered, and the quiet stillness of the lake set the stage for what was to come — a dream about to come alive. The dreammakers? Chanel’s dedicated army of artisans — guardians of fine craftsmanship and the residents of le19M: Montex, Lemarié & Lognon, Massaro, Goossens, Lesage, Maison Michel and more.

As night fell, models emerged one by one to the steady sound of beating drums, their silhouettes glistening on the lake. The show began with long-shouldered coats in luxurious tweed, satin, and velvet, enveloping the wearer in mystery. Some coats were embroidered with delicate floral motifs, while others featured luminous details like phosphorescent braids crafted by Atelier Montex, radiating with subtle light. 

It was a collection built for a modern-day adventurer — someone constantly in motion, carrying the world with them as they go. Pleated skirts and culottes added volume and movement, while knitwear  – ranging from jumpsuits bearing Coromandel screen motifs to floral cardigans and classic two-tone pieces – offered a sense of ease. Multiple pockets resembling envelopes adorned jackets and bags, nodding to letter-writing and correspondence from distant lands. Jade green, soft pink, and sky blue hues evoked the iridescent brilliance of lacquer, while faded blue denim, reminiscent of rippling water, added a modern contrast. Lemarié and Lognon brought exceptional pleating and flounces to blouses with ruff collars, as well as negligées and pyjamas that blurred the line between day and night. Pillow-shaped handbags, cloud-like pearl necklaces, and hats by Maison Michel tied the looks together with a touch of whimsy, echoing the dream that lay in the heart of this collection. 

References to Chinese culture were subtle and refined, striking a deeply resonant chord for those of us who hold this heritage close to our hearts. A cream tweed jacket was fastened with pankou knots by Paloma, a thoughtful nod to the traditional Chinese cheongsam. Other standout pieces included knit bodysuits woven with scenes from Chanel’s Coromandel screens, while intricate leather pleating by Lognon beautifully mirrored the folds of a traditional fan. A pair of glossy black patent leather boots crafted by Massaro, embroidered with delicate cloud motifs by Lesage, evoked the graceful brushstrokes of Chinese ink landscape paintings. Accessories, too, reflected this elegant homage: a heart-shaped abacus bag charm, with pearls in place of beads, offered a quintessentially Chanel reinterpretation of the historic arithmetic tool.

This, to me, was Chanel at its most alluring — a dream spun from the hands of Chanel’s le19M artisans, whose extraordinary craftsmanship weave magic into every seam, every stitch, and every silhouette. And on this one December evening, the dream belonged to all of us.