Karl Lagerfeld’s death in February sent seismic waves throughout the fashion world, leaving the biggest impact at Chanel where Lagerfeld had been at the helm for over three decades. Yet on the surface of the French Maison’s Resort 2020 show at the Grand Palais — Virginie Viard’s first solo collection without Lagerfeld — everything seemed to be smooth sailing. Indeed, Viard had worked closely under (and later alongside) Lagerfeld at Chanel for over two decades as studio director, a position that endowed her with the technical know-how and masculine-feminine elegance so definitive of the Chanel legacy. Her solo debut was thus a firm, albeit quiet, extension of Lagerfeld’s Chanel codes with a slightly more youthful approach.

The theme of the Resort collection was appropriately inspired by travel, taking place at an elaborate train station set where guests were served breakfast and lunch in pre-war train carriages. The collection opened with khaki, navy and black workwear-inspired outfits that nodded to train conductor uniforms, which transitioned quickly to a series of striped knit pieces worn over casual white shirts (a Lagerfeld signature). Vibrant candy hues appeared on tailored tweed jackets paired with allover print trousers and jumpsuits, while oversized bows and ample floral motifs gave a notably girlish touch. Viard’s interpretation of classic Chanel codes was perhaps best seen in looks such as the black lace dress with a sheer white cropped cape, worn with layers of gold chains and white and black colourblock boots, as well as the various renditions of tweed handbags. The novelty culminated in the asymmetric cocktail dresses and baggy trousers but ultimately toned down for the final looks, which closed with a black halter neck dress topped with Lagerfeld’s famous white collar.