Silvia Venturini Fendi’s women’s ready-to-wear debut for Fendi‘s Spring/Summer 2020 show – the Italian fashion house’s first collection in 54 years without the creative direction of Karl Lagerfeld – was a beaming, bright-eyed statement. “He was the captain!” Venturini Fendi said of the late legend. “So my life has changed in the way that now I decide. Before, there was a dialogue, a big dialogue. So today I feel the responsibility very much because the choices are mine—no compromise.”

She described the collection as “a solar mood” inspired by Italian sunrises and sunsets during the summer season. And like so, rose-tinted and sepia-toned, Fendi’s new chapter unfolded with a collection that mixed ingenue charm and ’60s/70s nostalgia. Models appeared with bedhead top knots and smudged eyeliner that set a notably casual tone in contrast to the sleek hair and tight-lined looks of the Lagerfeld era.

The show opened with a baby-pink quilted jacket and white quilted miniskirt, worn with a sheer Fendi brown check print turtleneck and bubblegum pink heels. Bright, groovy floral prints followed, with emblazoned bowling shirts, rain coats and bucket hats creating a psychedelic camping vibe, while long-line brown suede jackets and textured outerwear embraced Fendi’s artisanal expertise. Accessories saw bags of all sizes, textures, and prints, and a push for oversized shades worn with matching chains.