Gabriela Hearst has proven that eco-conscious clothing needn’t compromise on aesthetic. Her Spring/Summer 2020 show  was, first and foremost, a presentation of very beautiful clothing, channelling an earthy femininity that was both stoic and accessible. The focus on craftsmanship and clean tailoring was immediately visible in the opening look: a deconstructed trench coat with leather macrame net panels cinched at the waist with a geode-buckle belt. Her dresses were tall and lithe, boasting fluid pleated panels trimmed with lace and net detailing for a touch of bohemian romance. One particularly exquisite number was made entirely of fringes made from upcycled silk prints from Hearst’s past seasons. Another was the halter neck silhouette with a crochet bib featuring crystal plates in suspension. Hearst’s signature suiting appeared this season with stitched hems and dyed linen, which is a more eco-friendly material for the planet than cotton because it requires less water to grow.

Backstage, Hearst’s moodboard displayed strong female figures such as goddess Athena, Josephine Baker, 17th-century botanist Maria Sibylla Merian and the Kurdish freedom fighters alongside images of crystals, geodes, and wildflowers. What you didn’t find backstage, however, was ample use of electricity. In an effort to set a new industry standard, Hearst teamed up with EcoAct to ensure that the production of her runway show was carbon neutral, which meant that hair was done without using electricity and people were refrained from using single-use plastic.