JW Anderson’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection was all about the gaze. “There isn’t an underlying message,” the designer said backstage. “It’s just about looking. Maybe we should just enjoy the idea of looking, enjoy the experience.” Despite insisting otherwise, Anderson’s inspiration this season did require some sophistication to grasp — it took cues from the thought-provoking works by Canadian artist Liz Magor whose conceptual pieces frame still life objects from everyday, domestic life in blurred boxes. These works, which were displayed in the middle of the show space, inspired Anderson with “this idea of looking at how we take things that we no longer want and reposition them.”

The opening outfit was a black asymmetric dress that acted as a canvas for a jewelled chest piece — suggestively outlining the shape of a bra — and two chunky, jewelled rope straps that hung at the collar and around the hip. These crystal decals appeared throughout the collection, embellishing suits, printed blouses, knit dresses and various silhouettes that were fluid, earthy and easy-to-wear when seen on their own. Signature Anderson motifs refreshed anew with sculptural beige suits, contrast lapels, multi-colour knit fringes, and eccentric textures that gave a nomadic sense of elegance. Perhaps most beguiling, however, were some of the more straightforward pieces: delicate knit dresses and goddess wrap gowns that moved with such organic femininity that was, simply, so satisfying to watch.