The evening of Nensi Dojaka’s summer 2025 show was a momentous one for the designer who arose, as if from nowhere, as the most visible proponent of ‘naked’ or ‘pandemic revenge’ dressing. After a year of abstaining from shows, she made her return to London fashion week, showcased her collaboration with Calvin Klein (which is available immediately) and launched her own website e-shop all in one day. “Sometimes you have to take a leap of faith!” she’d exclaimed in an interview at her studio.

There are now many young women designers who are asserting different ways of framing and showcasing female bodies—the more the merrier, of course. But Dojaka’s comeback ( although she’s never really been away) was a reminder of exactly how precise, sensitive, and technically astonishing her work is. “In the collection, we have half of it that is quite organic and more floral, as always, and the other half that is a bit harsher, with more geometric lines,” she explained.

Stretch tulle layering, micro-drapes and ruffles on bralettes, the architectural engineering of tiny straps with miniscule clasps—all these were visibly back in play: true to form. It’s only human nature to ask what’s new, though? There was plenty, including body-clinging knitwear dresses, some with vertical sheer/opaque stripes, and a fierce molded leather bustier dress that was a surprise—in a good way.

There’s a lot more that she’s been doing off-runway that’s also surprising. Her lookbook for spring has denim, sequin body-dresses, and new fluted jersey flares. Pieces from this wardrobe are up for purchase on her website alongside the Calvin Klein collab.

Dojaka has spent her time off the hamster wheel of seasonal shows to work on her Calvin Klein commission, and decelerate from the madness of growing too quickly as a young brand. She made her much-applauded show comeback into a fashion world that is actually far more understanding of designers who only show when they have something to say and not because industry expectations are forcing them on stage. And besides, the expense of showing needs to be balanced against any possible gains.

Dojaka feels quite serene about this breakaway attitude. “I don’t want to put pressure on myself to do a show every season, and I just don’t want to be in a position where I’m destroying my brand because I’m doing a show,” she said, pragmatically. “There are so many other things to take care of in business, and now we are really taking care of it. That’s why now,” she smiled “it feels much better.”