Peter Do was single-minded backstage before his show. “I was a bit more selfish this season,” he began. “I wanted to do fashion that feels the most me, the most personal. I really like the suit. I like that it takes time to make, that you don’t need to buy many, and that when you find a good one, it becomes your safe space. I want to be that for women.” Some might call Do’s approach counterintuitive. After all, we’ve spent the last two years getting very comfortable out of suits. But a glance back at the pre-fall collections and a look around at the early New York shows says something different. The suit is back.

Do’s exacting nature came across in his palette, which he restricted to just four colors—black, white, camel, and gray. His cuts were more expressive. Many of the day suits were color-blocked in spirals, so they looked different front to back. For evening he showed a trio of monochrome three-piecers that combined trousers, waistcoats elongated to the ankles, and double-face coats worn shrugged off the shoulders to expose bare arms and back. Jackets scaled way, way up into one-size-fits-all coats made a big statement, a requirement for outerwear purchases. We’re likely to see those on the street this time next year.

In the end, it wasn’t as narrowly focused as Do advertised backstage. Breaking up the tailoring were long pleated skirts of the sort that we’ve seen elsewhere this week and a pair of minimal, slightly A-line long dresses. Slouchy ribbed sweaters with his tattoo logo down one sleeve were paired with cool wide-leg jeans with tuxedo stripes. The rip on one thigh was an unnecessary gesture. But Do is only on show two and the instinct was right: It doesn’t all have to be so serious.