Prada’s Autumn/Winter 2020 show took place in an auditorium bathed in red light, with abstract lines that moved in flux, and a cardboard statue of the Greek titan Atlas. “Atlas: the man who carries the world on his shoulders,” said Miuccia Prada. “Us women… have to deal with the lightness of life and something that… I call it ‘glamour’.”

This season, Miuccia Prada presented a collection “about the conflict between femininity and strength” by creating uniforms out of symbols of glamour. She subverted stereotypical feminine fashion — pretty frills, sheer fabrics, and delicate floral prints — by fusing them with structured silhouettes and sober materials. Take, for example, the fringing, which trimmed boxy coats and suits, and formed full skirts that moved with pleats. “This is a way of saying that you can be strong and feminine at the same time,” Prada said. Beyond the decorative elements, Prada asserted the “agency of women” through silhouette: masculine blazers were cinched at the waist to create a more sensual shape, while crystal dresses and pastel sheers were cut with a straight line.