For Autumn/Winter 2020, Anthony Vaccarello turned up the saturation at Saint Laurent, presenting an ’80-meets-‘90s-era collection of unadulterated neon colours, articulate shapes, and a mix of plush fabrics — like silk and cashmere — with harsh latex.

Describing this season’s look as “well-behaved and overly bourgeois elegance,” Vaccarello revived archival prints such as plaid, houndstooth, and polka dot and decked them with gilded buttons, velvet collars and pussy bows. There was an assertion of power with a classic YSL cut: leggy silhouettes with strong-shouldered suit jackets, sensual cocktail dresses and statement fur coats. These templates, more often presented in signature black, were served on a glossy palette of fuchsia, blue, purple and red, as well as highly textured black fabrics such as velvet and latex.