For Valentino’s Resort 2020 collection, Pierpaolo Piccioli created a wardrobe as suited to modern-day Manhattan as to Rome in the 1970s. The Maison called the collection “a delicate friction between extravagance and everyday,” first photographing it in Rome’s Orto Botanico, an enclave of lush greenery in the centre of the Italian capital, and then presenting it in New York City on the concrete streets framing Central Park.
Both of these locations presented a fusion of urban life and lavishness that was present in the clothing. In the two opening looks, Piccioli’s sumptuous haute couture codes were seen in the billowing proportions of taffeta gowns and the keen tailoring of sweeping capes, which were styled with the ready-to-wear ease of wide-strap leather belts, flat sandals and suede boots. Rich tones and monochromatic schemes were paired with elegant head wraps, wide-brim hats, and silk neck scarves for ’70s flair.
Bold prints were presented with elegance, such as the head-to-toe giraffe print ensembles and the sheer white organza pieces that transitioned into magnified flower prints, extending across pants and onto velvet boots. The same print appeared on a mini dress with blue tassel trim, a cream trench coat worn with a matching neck scarf, and then a sheer, scalloped-panel tunic gown. There were modern interpretations of paisley print day dresses, a Studio 54-worthy full sequin suit, as well as an apricot satin suit fringed with feathers that was inspired by an original Valentino sketch from the 1970s.
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Joanna Fu