In recent years, my interest and love for watches have grown. I feel lucky to have been introduced to the art through loved ones, admiring how these pieces effortlessly adorn the wrists and necks of family and friends across diverse settings and cultures. As I begin my journey of exploration and learning in the world of horology, there is no better place to start than with Maison Van Cleef & Arpels. Whenever I thought of Van Cleef in the past, my mind immediately went to some of its more notable and popular motifs. I’d think of the iconic Alhambra collection, where a simple four-leaf clover has made a lasting impression on generations of jewellery lovers. Yet, I’ve come to realise now that this collection barely scratches the surface of the Maison’s rich and lengthy design history.
The moment I stepped into the Poetry of Time installation in Costa Mesa, I was instantly captivated by the green hues enveloping the displays of watches. It felt as if I had been transported into an enchanted forest, frozen in time—ironically, while surrounded by symbols of it. I was warmly welcomed with champagne and cocktails, a delightful addition to the buzz of excitement and anticipation I was already feeling.
With a drink in hand, I followed the team around the exhibition to see the cases of beautiful watches, each one dazzling with gemstones and diamonds. Seeing them all together was breathtaking—a rare sight and a unique assembly compared to their displays at Watches and Wonders.
After admiring the displays, we were introduced to Rainer Bernard, Director of Research & Development for watchmaking, who provided us with an in-depth overview of Van Cleef’s most iconic timepieces. I was thrilled to learn how the Maison has always centred women in its design DNA and philosophy — a rarity in the male-dominated watch industry. It became clear that the Maison prioritises storytelling, beauty, and romance, using motifs of flowers, dance, and butterflies to bring its stories to life.
The two standout collections for me were the Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux (Lovers’ Bridge) and Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier.
As its name suggests, the Lovers’ Bridge collection celebrates love. The intricate mechanisms conveying this theme are what set it apart. The lady serves as the hour hand, while the gentleman represents the minutes. While she enjoys a leisurely stroll, he hurries to reach her, balancing tasks like preparing their date and juggling work. They meet on a bridge – a location customisable for the lucky few – symbolising the meeting of their worlds. In designing this watch, the Maison conducted a study in Paris to determine the essence of a true French kiss, concluding that an ideal passionate kiss lasts approximately three minutes. This insight informs the Lovers’ Bridge design: at noon and midnight, the couple on the bridge meets for a kiss, their bodies remaining in contact within the watch for the duration of this intimate moment. This design celebrates the fleeting yet profound nature of romance, capturing moments often kept private.
The Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier collection was equally captivating. Inspired by the Flower Clock concept devised by Swedish botanist Carl von Linné in 1751, this watch features flowers that bloom hourly: one flower opens at one o’clock, two at two o’clock, and so on. What makes this watch truly remarkable is that no flower pairing is repeated; the face displays a fresh and random combination of flowers each hour, keeping the owner enchanted. This collection encapsulates the blend of predictability and unpredictability inherent in life and time. There’s a beauty in the way routine intertwines with unexpected surprises. Describing this collection alone feels insufficient; one must see the blooming and closing of the buds to fully appreciate the design’s intricate beauty. It’s no wonder it won the Innovation Design Award in 2022.
My appreciation for timepieces grew even more when we moved to the enamelling workshop portion of the evening. The technique Van Cleef uses, called grisaille enamel, originated in 16th-century France. Depending on the watch face’s background, a different colour of enamel is used to paint scenic details and the varying hues of daylight. It takes 30 to 40 hours to complete each landscape.
Although I’ve painted for a few years, I knew I wouldn’t match the skill of Van Cleef’s enamelling artisans, who have a minimum of 18 years of experience. Still, I was unprepared for how challenging it would be. The tiny surface, combined with the microscope used for precision, made it an incredibly intricate task.
After the workshop, we were invited to Van Cleef & Arpels’ private showrooms, where we had the rare opportunity to try on the pieces themselves. It was like feasting on a buffet of timepieces, with tray after tray of watches presented to us. Even seasoned watch enthusiasts rarely experience this. I felt like a million pounds—or, more accurately, a couple of hundred thousand pounds. Throughout the night, I noticed how the brand’s personality and DNA permeated every detail, from the florals to the lighting.
The evening concluded with a beautiful, intimate dinner. Over multiple courses and surrounded by bouquets of fresh flowers, I got to know the Van Cleef team personally as we discussed our favourite pieces and reminisced about the wonderful night we had just shared.
Editor
Jane LiCredit
Image Courtesy of Jane Li
