June is the perfect month to be in Florence. This year, I came for Pitti Uomo, which is predominantly a menswear trade fair, but it’s always the guest designers’ shows and events that steal the spotlight. At Pitti, the shows are joyful experiences with the stunning city of Florence as a backdrop.
Best collection: Salvatore Ferragamo
The brand’s first menswear collection under the creative direction of Paul Andrew was shown next to the Fountain of Neptune, which was recently restored by Ferragamo. The collection’s colour palette saw earth tones mixed with different shades of pink, green and other saturated hues. The womenswear was inspired by archival shoe designs, local Tuscan artisans, intricate weaving techniques and raffia embroideries. I liked the marriage of high-craft and high-tech, a concept which was especially rich in the footwear selection. Also noteworthy was Ferragamo’s diverse cast of young Hollywood actors and celebrities sitting front row, and the surprise appearance of legendary art director Peter Saville on the runway. To give more context to the collection, the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo hosted an exhibition called Sustainable Thinking that highlighted the brand’s revolutionary use of natural, recycled and innovative materials, as well as its devotion towards a collective commitment.
Best event: Givenchy
The Givenchy SS20 menswear show was an unforgettable experience – a full-blown Tuscan fiesta held in the splendid gardens of the Villa Palmieri. Upon arrival, we were greeted with a live classical music performance by a quartet, then lead down a pathway to the gardens where vintage games were dotted around. The lavish food and beverage set-up was jaw-dropping. The runway was lit by suspended white lanterns which turned into red disco lights for the afterparty. Jodie Harsh was on the DJ deck spinning dance music, and creative director of the house Clare Waight Keller joined her at the DJ booth to dance with the show guests.
Best runway: Luisa Via Roma x CR Runway
On the occasion of its 90th anniversary, Florence-based online retailer Luisa Via Roma hosted a celebratory runway show at Piazzale Michelangelo, styled by the legendary Carine Roitfeld. It was supermodels galore: Gigi Hadid opened the show followed by the likes of Bella Hadid, Irina Shayk, Joan Smalls, Karen Elson, Lara Stone, Maria Carla Boscono, Natasha Poly and more. There were 90 AW19 runway looks from various brands stocked under the Luisa Via Roma retail umbrella, and also some archive looks from Helmut Lang and Christian Lacroix Haute Couture. The evening ended with a gala dinner and after-party.
Best showcase: Guest Nation, China
At the Pitti Uomo trade fair, the most memorable showcase for me was Guest Nation, China, which was organized by Labelhood, a Shanghai-based agency that supports independent Chinese designers. The showcase featured designers like Ffixxed Studios, Private Policy, Pronounce (which showed during Pitti Uomo), and Samuel Gui Yang (who had his first venture into menswear). The sought-after Chinese photographer Leslie Zhang curated a mini-exhibition of his work. It was great exposure for Chinese talent.
Editor
Declan Chan Contributing Editor
