Camp與時裝和藝術的關係何在?為什麼Tiffany燈、羅文和Gucci都是camp經典?解讀 Met Gala 2019 主題
2019年Met Gala服裝學院年度時裝展的主題是“Camp: Notes on Fashion”,而靈感來自美國公共知識份子Susan Sontag(蘇珊桑達,對時裝人而言,更好的介紹可能是Annie Leibovitz的已故伴侶)1964年發表的論文 〈Notes on Camp〉。雖然今回博物館用時裝展覽來詮釋此篇文章中的概念camp,或曰用camp來探討時裝。但事實上這篇文章,除了對時裝創作有強大的解釋能力,更蘊藏對審美、藝術乃至人生的無限啟發性。
Susan Sontag用了note(筆記)的體裁來書寫camp,本身就表達了此概念很難像其他文學文化概念,可以用傳統的論文形式般有條理地論述——camp可以類似於很多不同概念,但它不等於那概念。但簡而言之,它不是一種思想而是一種感受力(sensibility),是一種對於非自然、人為造作感覺的偏愛——當你對某些非自然的形式或內容出現這種偏愛時,那大概就是感受到何為camp了,甚至開始從中獲得了快感。
“Camp: Notes on Fashion”的論文作者Susan Sontag (1933-2004), American writer, France, on November 3, 1972. (Photo by Jean-Regis Rouston/Roger Viollet/Getty Images)
“Camp: Notes on Fashion”的論文作者Susan Sontag (1933-2004), American writer, France, on November 3, 1972. (Photo by Jean-Regis Rouston/Roger Viollet/Getty Images)
A Lamp by Clara Driscoll at "A New Light on Tiffany" exhibit. The gallery show presents new historical findings on the inner-workings of the Tiffany Studios and the role of designer Clara Driscoll and the Tiffany Girls (Photo by Jemal Countess/WireImage)
A Lamp by Clara Driscoll at "A New Light on Tiffany" exhibit. The gallery show presents new historical findings on the inner-workings of the Tiffany Studios and the role of designer Clara Driscoll and the Tiffany Girls (Photo by Jemal Countess/WireImage)
026678.0325.osc66.ws07 ?? Bjork at the 73rd Academy Awards at the Shrine Auditorium in Los Angeles on Sunday March 25, 2001. (Photo by Wally Skalij/Los Angeles Times via Getty Images)
026678.0325.osc66.ws07 ?? Bjork at the 73rd Academy Awards at the Shrine Auditorium in Los Angeles on Sunday March 25, 2001. (Photo by Wally Skalij/Los Angeles Times via Getty Images)
2013年版本的The Great Gastby的空洞與唯美,算是近年的camp電影;本地電影的camp經典當數楊凡的所有作品,在造作的作品裡充滿強烈情感色彩的失敗中發現成功,正是camp之樂趣。
Camp的概念來自歐美知識份子,但不表示東方世界沒有camp感覺,不單止有而且極多,但視乎是有否戴上camp的眼鏡來偵測出。Susan Sontag在她的鴻文中為camp作了一次鬆散的歷史譜系分析,指出十七、十八世紀的藝術是camp偉大時期,炫耀性的動作和裝飾性顫音在歌劇中特別受欣賞。試想想日本那些演歌歌星誇張的震音和手勢,還有羅文那件孔雀羽毛披肩("Camp is a woman walking around in a dress made of three million feathers.")。還有林燕妮,她獨特的說話方式、買Chanel買到變成她身份的一部分,把自己裝飾得像一件藝術品(”One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.”-Sontag引用的王爾德名句),我們的身邊到處都是camp品味。
之前不是完全沒有,Marc Jacobs 2010年春夏就曾經開宗明義說明那季Louis Vuitton是啟發自〈Notes on Camp〉,但畢竟是大品牌,用camp用得點到即止,熊貓化成閃片上衣的圖案,謹此而已。但Alessandro Michele初期的確將camp、kitsch和trash(請讀另一篇重要的文章〈Trash, Art, and Movies〉)的精神揮灑得淋漓盡致,而且全面。除了對非自然造作裝飾的傾心、還有對trash art(例如50年代的B級科幻電影)和 kitsch(例如迪士尼卡通、舊荷里活片廠的歌舞片)的熱愛,Michele以時裝媒介再次表現了對藝術審美觀的解放態度,對清教徒式反快感的審美學(包括傳統的high art和對大眾艱澀難明的、充滿反思的現代主義藝術)作了消解。
PARIS - OCTOBER 06: Model Kinga Rajzak walks the runway in a panda motif sequined top at the Louis Vuitton fashion show during Paris Fashion Week on October 6, 2010 in Paris City. (Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images)
PARIS - OCTOBER 06: Model Kinga Rajzak walks the runway in a panda motif sequined top at the Louis Vuitton fashion show during Paris Fashion Week on October 6, 2010 in Paris City. (Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 20: A model walks the runway at the Gucci show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017 on June 20, 2016 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 20: A model walks the runway at the Gucci show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017 on June 20, 2016 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
大量引用大眾文化中的所謂垃圾trash作品,例如迪士尼卡通這種被批評為粗製的文化垃圾,卻又用得十分細緻好玩,就是Michele過人之處。MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 20: A model walks the runway at the Gucci show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017 on June 20, 2016 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
大量引用大眾文化中的所謂垃圾trash作品,例如迪士尼卡通這種被批評為粗製的文化垃圾,卻又用得十分細緻好玩,就是Michele過人之處。MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 20: A model walks the runway at the Gucci show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017 on June 20, 2016 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
“One can be serious about the frivolous, frivolous about the serious.”用今天的說法就是「無聊事認真做,認真事無聊做」」,而現代意義的時裝自19世紀中葉發展以來,camp的精神就一直植根在其本質之中。Fashion對人類生活的一大價值也體現在最早談camp的才子王爾德另一名言︰「只有膚淺的人才不會以貌取人」——相比精英主義者眼中的純粹藝術,時尚也許膚淺,但當中所承載的對各種生活中的日常事物的唯美感受力、品味,能夠為人提供快樂、愉悅,而不是一天到晚只以政治或道德立場掛帥,板起面口、冷酷無情地指天罵地,踏低別人抬高自己。