年僅32歲的Daniel Lee加入Bottega Veneta後一炮而紅,簡單的變動已讓沉寂已久的品牌再度成為潮流定音者。他首兩季的設計內,近乎所有的配飾都被人一掃而空,更在剛剛British Fashion Council宣佈的2019 Fashion Awards名單內,獲得四項提名,成積絕對不比Phoebe Philo遜色。

若然大家還有印象,Phoebe Philo在2017年辭職,2018年三月離去,所以2018年的Pre-fall是她的遺作。但是Fall/Winter 2018的Celine依然十分有Phoebe Philo的風格,這是因為Daniel Lee在Phoebe Philo離職時,被晉升為女裝設計總監,所以Celine依然有其韻味及魅力。可惜Celine沒有Bottega Veneta的膽量,去讓這位32歲的設計師擔大旗,因此痛失了LVMH集團內其一重點的市場。而Daniel Lee也沒有辜負到Bottega Veneta的信任,不但做得好,還繼承了Phoebe Philo的低調風格,不領功、不宣傳及作那些self-marketing/ branding,如此的態度,更教人另眼相看。

Bottega Veneta 創作總監 Daniel Lee

Bottega Veneta 創作總監 Daniel Lee

2019 Fashion Awards的完整提名名單如下:


Accessories Designer of the Year


Alessandro Michele for Gucci
Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta
Jonathan Anderson for Loewe
Kim Jones for Dior Men
Simon Porte Jacquemus for Jacquemus


Brand of the Year


Bottega Veneta
Gucci
Jacquemus
Loewe
Prada


British Designer of the Year Menswear


Craig Green for Craig Green
Grace Wales Bonner for Wales Bonner
Kim Jones for Dior Men
Martine Rose for Martine Rose
Riccardo Tisci for Burberry


British Designer of the Year Womenswear


Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta
John Galliano for Maison Margiela
Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson & Loewe
Richard Quinn for Richard Quinn
Simone Rocha for Simone Rocha


British Emerging Talent Menswear


Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty for Cottweiler
Bethany Williams for Bethany Williams
Kiko Kostadinov for Kiko Kostadinov
Phoebe English for Phoebe English
Sofia Prantera for Aries


British Emerging Talent Womenswear


Laura and Deanna Fanning for Kiko Kostadinov
Matty Bovan for Matty Bovan
Phoebe English for Phoebe English
Rejina Pyo for Rejina Pyo
Rosh Mahtani for Alighieri


Business Leader


Alexandre Arnault for Rimowa
José Neves for Farfetch
Marco Bizzarri for Gucci
Marco Gobbetti for Burberry
Remo Ruffini for Moncler


Designer of the Year


Alessandro Michele for Gucci
Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta
Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson & Loewe
Kim Jones for Dior Men
Miuccia Prada for Prada


Model of the Year


Adesuwa Aighewi
Adut Akech
Adwoa Aboah
Kaia Gerber
Winnie Harlow


Urban Luxe


Alyx
Fenty
Marine Serre
Martine Rose
Moncler Genius

總覺得Daniel Lee這個成功例子正在給時裝界一種訊息,可能是side class不比名牌設計師弱、又或是年齡或與明星的人脈真的重要嗎?在名氣勝於一切的年代,Kering集團如何擁有這種勇氣,將兩大品牌交予給Alessandro Michele和Daniel Lee呢?相信他們都明白了些甚麼,也知道時裝人其實不一定很idolism罷?