Checks 是格子統稱,它還可細分為 Tartan、Plaid、Gingham、Buffalo Plaid。在2020秋冬天橋上,它們都在百花齊放:Versace 用 houndstooth 保持了它的經典味道,將傳統的格紋提升到大膽的紅色。Gucci 在其高貴的系列上展示了誇張的傳統格子,致敬對象從教堂到年輕的夏洛特公主。中性色系的撞色格子絕對是我們要盡快加入衣櫥的元素,用這種不斷流行的圖案來提升服飾的變化。

此外,Maria Grazia Chiuri 將流蘇格子放大,變成輕便又保暖的 Dior 斗篷; Riccardo Tisci 為 Burberry 創作格紋的性感背心和綁結裙子;Miu Miu 的夜總會少女將冬季 Gingham 變成厚重的外套裙子,分外復古。

如此眾聲喧鬧的一季格紋大合唱,你又能夠分得出每種格子的獨特之處嗎?

PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 29: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY) A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021 on February 29, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Thierry Chesnot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 02: A model walks the runway during the Stella McCartney Ready to Wear fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on March 02, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – March 3: A model walks the runway during the Miu Miu as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021 on March 3, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 02: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY) A model walks the runway during the Alexander McQueen as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021 on March 02, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - FEBRUARY 29: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY) A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021 on February 29, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Thierry Chesnot/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 02: A model walks the runway during the Stella McCartney Ready to Wear fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020-2021 on March 02, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – March 3: A model walks the runway during the Miu Miu as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021 on March 3, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 02: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY) A model walks the runway during the Alexander McQueen as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021 on March 02, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
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格子布的歷史悠久,check 一字來源於古波斯語單詞shah,意為「國王」,源於東方人在方格棋盤上進行的國際象棋遊戲。在時裝界iconic的格子布,其中包括 Burberry 在傳統蘇格蘭格子布中創作自己獨有的米色格紋,並在1921年取得專利。其格紋和風衣款式定義了整個 Burberry 的品牌形象。以前 Burberry 的格子多是出現在圍巾和下裳,現在換了 Riccardo Tisci 當設計總監後,整個品牌方向在傳統中帶有年輕的風格,其格子布不時出現在整件襯衫和風衣上,高調的同亦受鍾愛潮流和街頭文化的消費者喜歡。

NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 05: A model walks the runway ay the Todd Snyder fashion show during New York Fashion Week at Pier 59 Studios on February 5, 2020 in New York City. (Photo by Albert Urso/Getty Images)/ Buffalo Plaid
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 17: A model walks the runway at the Burberry show during London Fashion Week February 2020 on February 17, 2020 in London, England. (Photo by John Phillips/BFC/Getty Images for BFC)/ Tartan
MILANO, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway during the Sunnei fashion show during Milan Women's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2021 on September 24, 2020 in Milano, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)/ Plaid
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 29: Natalia Vodianova attends the Dior Womenswear Spring/Summer 2021show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 29, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki/WireImage)/ Gingham
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 05: A model walks the runway ay the Todd Snyder fashion show during New York Fashion Week at Pier 59 Studios on February 5, 2020 in New York City. (Photo by Albert Urso/Getty Images)/ Buffalo Plaid
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 17: A model walks the runway at the Burberry show during London Fashion Week February 2020 on February 17, 2020 in London, England. (Photo by John Phillips/BFC/Getty Images for BFC)/ Tartan
MILANO, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway during the Sunnei fashion show during Milan Women's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2021 on September 24, 2020 in Milano, Italy. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)/ Plaid
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 29: Natalia Vodianova attends the Dior Womenswear Spring/Summer 2021show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 29, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki/WireImage)/ Gingham
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而眾多格子中,起碼有以下幾種是必須認識的:Tartan(蘇格蘭格紋)、Plaid(格子花呢)、Gingham(格子棉布)和 Buffalo Plaid 最受歡迎。Tartan 是蘇格蘭格紋,其橫直條紋以不同顏色組成,最初出現在梭織羊毛(woven wool)布料上。而蘇格蘭格紋顧名思義,最早出現在3,000年前蘇格蘭高地的格蘭族服飾上的古老格紋,現在經常會出現在法蘭絨圍巾和刷毛面料西裝設計上,是所有格紋種類中最複雜細緻的。蘇格蘭格紋尤其受皇室成員擁戴,如伊利沙伯女王、已故戴安娜王妃和凱特王妃等更是經常穿蘇格蘭布的服裝。

Plaid 與 Tartan 外表接近,格子紋路線條較多,蓋爾語(Gaelic )“Plaide”意思為毯子。如今,Plaid 已經涵蓋了 Tartan,是更常用來代表格紋的名字,並經常當成是西裝上格紋的泛稱。比 Tartan 線條簡單一點的則是 check,簡單直只有兩色單格條紋的就是 Gingham 和 Buffulo Plaid 兩種。

與 Plaid 不同的是,Gingham 是對稱和用一個顏色的紗線,只是在交叉的梭織上會造成顏色的深淺:以白色和藍色紗線為例,編織圖案的不同會導致交錯時的白色線的總量不同,白色紗線在上面多的時候藍色就會比較淺。

Buffalo Plaid 就和 Gingham 非常相似,只是 Buffalo Plaid 的斜紋比較明顯;Buffalo Plaid 在紅色底色上有黑色的斜紋。它的名字由來是在1850年代,當時賓夕凡尼亞州Chatham’s Run 的 Woolrich 工廠的一位設計師,他擁有一群水牛,他複製了蘇格蘭的一種稱為“Rob Roy”的圖案。因為附近賓夕凡尼亞州森林裏的伐木工人是使用此格紋的羊毛衫的主要客戶,因而得名 Buffalo Plaid 。

來到2020秋冬,在可持續發展的環保精神下,Maison Margiela 以舊的 Plaid 羊毛布料拼合人造毛皮,帶來極度溫暖而不失前衛的感覺;Alexander McQueen 也將創辦人的蘇格蘭根源再次高舉,把 Tartan 格子剪成斜裁裙子,型格無比。