今次引起爭議的是時裝展上的模特兒髮型設計，被指出涉嫌文化挪用，因為髮型師 Julien d’Ys 利用假髮編織出與黑人辮極度相似的外型，而時裝展的黑人模特兒反而無須配戴，以自己的頭髮上台。

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Back in 2018, @commedesgarcons cast their first black models in over 20 years for their FW18 show, following critical comments from netizens who noticed they hadn’t featured a black model since 1994. Last night, the avant-garde Japanese label seemed to have taken a step back with their men’s show, this time putting white models in cornrow wigs. Some black models also sported the wigs, while some wore their own hair. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Vogue Runway called them “odd”, which is a curious statement in itself, considering the stigma and discrimination of natural hair and hairstyles that embrace cultural identity (braids, Bantu knots, twists and locs). It was only in 2015 that Fashion Police host Giuliana Rancic said that Zendaya’s dreadlocks at the Oscars made her look like she “smells like patchouli oil or weed”. Suffice it to say, CDG’s decision to appropriate the braided hairstyles for white models is indeed problematic. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ On the positive side, more states are legislating to ban race-based hair discrimination, following New York and California’s decision in 2019. Dieters, what do you think about the wigs at Comme des Garçons? The look on the model’s faces say it all, don’t you think? • #commedesgarcons #culturalappropriation #pfw #pfwm #pfw20 #cornrows #wig #wigs #caucasity #commepocracy #reikawakubo #adrianjoffe #discrimination #hair #naturalhairstyles #locs #locstyles #blackhair #blackhairstyles #naturallycurly #protectivestyles #goodhair #model #malemodel #avantgarde #cdgconverse #cdgplay #cdg #vogue #dietprada

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時裝展釋出後，引起社交媒體和時裝界的廣泛爭議，時裝警察 Diet Prada 先指出 Comme des Garçons 自1994年開始，從未任用過黑人模特兒，到2018年的秋冬系列才考慮甄選黑人模特兒。作為如此前衛的日本傳奇品牌卻在包容性的方面欠缺足夠的觸覺。

而早前獲得英國時裝協會的 Fashion Award 中年度最佳模特兒的 Adowa Aboah 也跟隨回應：「我們感到意外嗎？」諷刺時裝界種族歧視仍是根深蒂固的問題。

在時裝展的當天，與川久保玲合作多年的髮型師 Julien d’Ys 則上載圖坦卡門及古埃及的靈感來源。因此獲得不少正面評論，甚至迎來時裝設計師 Marc Jacobs 的留言，反而矛頭指向自己 ，被網友指出這行為顯然並沒有從 2017春夏時裝展上得到教訓（因為的天橋髮型設計同樣被指有藐視種族主義)。

事情發展到最後，還是髮型師 Julien d’Ys 敵不過媒體一致撻伐，上載道歉聲明：

事到如今，有人認為這件事情沒有想像中嚴重，而時裝創作不應該受到規限；有人則留言覺得今次無論有心與否都應該做足功課，因為種族文化的衍生都蘊含着非凡的意義與象徵，需要被人尊重也需要被人了解。

Comme des GarçonsFall 2020Menswear

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Katherine Ho

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