Chloé如今是It bag的出產地,現代都市女性的制服,然而在時尚的歷史洪流中,不要忘了這個法國品牌幾經易手,正是如今許多呼風喚雨時裝設計師的練習室。換句話說,他們為品牌打造獨特風格、推向高點的同時也找到了自己的風格,並變得更加成功。因此,這是一個出道故事。

 

Karl Lagerfeld

Gaby Aghion在1952年創立了Chloé,她的成衣設計可以很快從貨架上購買,因此也被許多女性追捧。 1964年,Aghion聘請了當時還不為人知的Karl Lagerfeld和她一起工作,Lagerfeld在60年代同時為Chloé和Fending打工。

從1975年開始,Lagerfeld是Chloé的唯一設計師。 在Lagerfeld的領導下,Chloé成功躍上國際舞台,10年間Chloé的女士是充滿自信的:趣味及熱情奔放的大膽印花及飄逸洋裝,有著唯美又浪漫的波西米亞風格。他的設計深獲前任美國第一夫人Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis及法國傳奇女星Brigitte Bardot等人的喜愛。當然Lagerfeld隨即聲名大噪,於1983年加入了Chanel。

German creative director and fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld in the workshops of Chloe, Paris, France, 11th April 1983. (Photo by Pierre Vauthey/Sygma/Sygma via Getty Images)

German creative director and fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld in the workshops of Chloe, Paris, France, 11th April 1983. (Photo by Pierre Vauthey/Sygma/Sygma via Getty Images)

FRANCE - OCTOBER 01: Chloe, Karl Lagarfeld in Paris, France in October , 1978. (Photo by Francois LOCHON/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

FRANCE - OCTOBER 01: Chloe, Karl Lagarfeld in Paris, France in October , 1978. (Photo by Francois LOCHON/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

Martine Sitbon

1987年,Martine Sitbon加入Chloé,在5年的時間裡,她繼續推廣品牌的甜美女性氣質。她還引入了男裝和歌舞表演等影響,同時為自己的同名品牌進行設計。作為Aghion之後法國品牌的第一位女設計師,Sitbon開創了一個新的時代並搭上了超模時代的列車。 2006年,Sitbon又推出了深受歡迎的Rue de Mail品牌。 2012年,她被授予 “Chevalier de l’Ordre National du Mérite “勳章。

Martine Sitbon (Photo by Foc Kan/WireImage) *** Local Caption ***

Martine Sitbon (Photo by Foc Kan/WireImage) *** Local Caption ***

Karl Lagerfeld短暫回歸

Kalr Lagerfeld似乎對他的第一份工作情有獨鍾。 他於1992年再次回歸Chloé,他鞏固了自由奔放的氛圍,成為Chloé女孩造型的核心,但這次的成績卻不如以往耀眼。在1997年,他最後一次為品牌設計的春季系列中,他邀請了超模Kirsty Hume、Nadja Auermann和其他90年代最受歡迎的人參加他的時裝展。Stella McCartney接棒。

Karl Lagerfeld en compagnie des mannequins Nadja Auermann, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell et Carla Bruni lors du défilé Chloé, Prêt-à-Porter, collection Automne-Hiver 1996-97 à Paris en mars 1996, France. (Photo by Pool ARNAL/PICOT/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

Karl Lagerfeld en compagnie des mannequins Nadja Auermann, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell et Carla Bruni lors du défilé Chloé, Prêt-à-Porter, collection Automne-Hiver 1996-97 à Paris en mars 1996, France. (Photo by Pool ARNAL/PICOT/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

Stella McCartney

1997年,年僅25歲的Stella McCartney被任命為Chloé的創意總監,剛從中央聖馬丁學院畢業的她,在執掌品牌之前只設計了兩個系列。

儘管很多人懷疑她的能力,並頻頻冠上「星二代」的光環,Stella McCartney在Chloé卻取得了巨大的成功。她以男裝為靈感的作品最終支撐起了品牌柔和的一面,在這裡,超模們包括Kate Moss、Naomi Campbell都手挽手與Stella McCartney在天橋上謝幕,是一個青春奔放的時代。

PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 15: British top models Kate Moss (L), Naomi Campbell (2nd L, background) and Jodie Kidd (R) pose with stylist Stella McCartney (C), 25, the daughter of former Beatle Paul McCartney, who designed the Spring/Summer '98 ready-to-wear collection for the French fashion house Chloe following her show at the Paris opera. (Photo credit should read THOMAS COEX/AFP via Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 15: British top models Kate Moss (L), Naomi Campbell (2nd L, background) and Jodie Kidd (R) pose with stylist Stella McCartney (C), 25, the daughter of former Beatle Paul McCartney, who designed the Spring/Summer '98 ready-to-wear collection for the French fashion house Chloe following her show at the Paris opera. (Photo credit should read THOMAS COEX/AFP via Getty Images)

Stella McCartney, daughter of Beatles star, Paul McCartney, cheers the audience after the show for her label Chloe 11 October 2000 in Paris during the Spring/Summer 2001 ready-to-wear collections. (FILM) (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP via Getty Images)

Stella McCartney, daughter of Beatles star, Paul McCartney, cheers the audience after the show for her label Chloe 11 October 2000 in Paris during the Spring/Summer 2001 ready-to-wear collections. (FILM) (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP via Getty Images)

Phoebe Philo

你認得Phoebe Philo如此青澀的模樣嗎?1996 年畢業於中央聖馬丁的Phoebe Philo 加入學姊 Stella McCartney 在 Chloé 的創意總監工作,在 Stella身旁擔任設計助理。

直到 2001 年 Stella McCartney 轉而自創品牌以後,Phoebe接任Chloé 的創意總監一職,並取得了了巨大的成功。她不僅將「型格」更鮮明地注入了Chloé 女人的特質中,更革新歷史推出了飾品系列。她首度推出了Paddington包,另品牌更為備受矚目,直至三年後讚譽有加的Phoebe Philoi加入了Céline

British designer Phoebe Philo acknowledges the audience after her first show for Stella McCartney's label, Chloe 10 October 2001 during the spring/summer 2002 ready-to-wear collections in Paris. AFP PHOTO PIERRE VERDY (FILM) (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP via Getty Images)

British designer Phoebe Philo acknowledges the audience after her first show for Stella McCartney's label, Chloe 10 October 2001 during the spring/summer 2002 ready-to-wear collections in Paris. AFP PHOTO PIERRE VERDY (FILM) (Photo credit should read PIERRE VERDY/AFP via Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE: Canadian model Daria presents a creation by British designer Phoebe Philo for Chloe during the Spring-Summer 2005 Ready to Wear collections presentations in Paris 09 October 2004. AFP PHOTO JEAN-PIERRE MULLER (Photo credit should read JEAN-PIERRE MULLER/AFP via Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE: Canadian model Daria presents a creation by British designer Phoebe Philo for Chloe during the Spring-Summer 2005 Ready to Wear collections presentations in Paris 09 October 2004. AFP PHOTO JEAN-PIERRE MULLER (Photo credit should read JEAN-PIERRE MULLER/AFP via Getty Images)

Clare Waight Keller

前Givenchy創意總監Clare Waight Keller的設計道路也十分豐富、曾在Gucci設計針織品,後在蘇格蘭針織品品牌Pringle工作後,Clare Waight Keller在2011年加入Chloé。 她重拾品牌在70年代波西米亞風格,又延續了Phoebe Philo的飾品路線,為品牌設計出了兩款經典It bag——Drew和Faye。

Clare Waight Keller在Chloé工作了六年,2017 年秋季是她的最後一個系列,隨即接手法國時裝屋Givenchy。

Emma Roberts and Stylidt Clare Waight Keller pose backsytage after the Chloe show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2017/2018 on March 2, 2017 in Paris, France. (Photo by Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images)

Emma Roberts and Stylidt Clare Waight Keller pose backsytage after the Chloe show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2017/2018 on March 2, 2017 in Paris, France. (Photo by Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images)

Natacha-Ramsay Levi

Natacha-Ramsay Levi自2017年3月起擔任品牌創意總監,有著 Balenciaga 、Hermès 和 Acne Studios 等紮實的設計經驗,Natacha-Ramsay Levi終於在Chloé大展拳腳。鞏固波希米亞浪漫女性風的同時,更建立了堅定的女權主義形象,仍然高產It bag之外,並找來藝術家合作等等,予人留下深刻印象。

2019年的Met Gala上,美國著名女星Gwyneth Paltrow也是選擇了Chloé並由Natacha結伴出席。同年Gwyneth的品牌Goop也與Chloé合作推出聯乘系列服裝。Gwyneth如今在任職近四年後宣布離開Chloé,是否會繼承其他前輩的路線,在Chloé這個傳奇品牌及「出道寶地」後有著更光輝的發展?

Designer Natacha Ramsay-Levi walks the runway during the Chloe show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021 on February 27, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)

Designer Natacha Ramsay-Levi walks the runway during the Chloe show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2020/2021 on February 27, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)

Gwyneth Paltrow and Natacha Ramsay-Levi attends The 2019 Met Gala Celebrating Camp: Notes on Fashion at Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 06, 2019 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for The Met Museum/Vogue)

Gwyneth Paltrow and Natacha Ramsay-Levi attends The 2019 Met Gala Celebrating Camp: Notes on Fashion at Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 06, 2019 in New York City. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for The Met Museum/Vogue)